Evening rolls around after a slow, relaxing, breezy day at the beach. Preparing and eating a large meal is just about the last thing you can imagine doing, but a cool cocktail and some light, delicious fare would fit the bill perfectly.

And so you find yourself wondering where to find tasteful tapas, perfectly paired wine, a casually cool atmosphere, and relaxed, sophisticated, comfortable service.

Look no further than Old Vines Wine Bar.

Old Vines is the brainchild of Mike Farrell, whose long roster of food experiences — including some of New York’s top kitchens, such as the Four Seasons and Eleven Madison Park — gracefully manifest themselves through the wine and food of Maine’s first and only traditional European-style wine bar.

The core concept of the restaurant is simple, and designed to meet three main criteria: a comfortable atmosphere, great food and knowledgeable service. After spending some quality time experiencing both the food and wine, I can enthusiastically say those criteria have not only been met, but well surpassed.

Old Vines has the feel of a rustic barn mixed with hints of quiet sophistication and elegance. Yet they maintain their friendly Mainer’s touch throughout. In short, don’t dismiss Old Vines as a place for uppity snobbery; rather, it’s a place where walking through the door makes you feel you’re part of a small club of folks sharing a secret, mutually acknowledging the happy fact that you’ve landed upon an absolute gem.

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The wine selection clearly stands front and center on the menu. It’s also accommodates those who want to try more than a few in an evening.

Not only does Old Vines serve by-the-glass selections (priced from $7 to $10), there are many half-glass choices as well (ranging from $3.50 to $5). The selection takes you on an international tour that doesn’t focus too heavily on any one particular region, thus giving guests a broad yet relatively focused array of interesting and tasty choices.

Should you choose to foray into the delightful tapas menu (from cured olives at $5 to heirloom tomato tartine at $10), you’ll find a wine pairing that fits like a glove. And if you’re not sure you’ve picked a proper pairing, ask your server. They’re happy to direct you toward a good match, giving you interesting and helpful tidbits of well-versed wine knowledge along the way.

Old Vines doesn’t shy away from showcasing its creativity with cocktails. The Ladybird is a simple and crisp refresher, with house-infused pear Amoro, Earl Grey cane syrup, fresh grapefruit and candied lemon peel ($10).

If you’re feeling a bit spicier, try the Sanguinarian, which combines a punchy mix of gold rum, blood orange, ginger habanero and cane syrup ($9).

And although the beer selection is small, it is well-chosen and tasteful, covering the bases with local favorites including Peak Organic IPA and Allagash White (both $5), while supplementing with beers from further afield, including Anchor Steam ($6), Guinness ($7) and Pilsner Urquel ($5).

When you’re looking for an evening of comfortable, stylish ambience with lighter fare and lovely wine, make the trip to Kennebunk. Old Vines will be ready to treat you to a delicious night.

Johanna Sorrell is a freelance writer who lives in Portland.

 

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