Veal and mushrooms just seem to belong together. The mix of cremini, oyster and white buttons complements the meat. In this stew, I add marsala wine, which is often paired with veal. It deepens the flavor of the broth without overwhelming the other ingredients.

The only mushroom I try to avoid is shiitake, which becomes too tough after the long cooking required to tenderize the veal. The browning of the meat and mushrooms takes time, but don’t skip that step; it adds flavor and color to the stew.

To save time, use pre-sliced mushrooms. Flat mushrooms, such as oysters, should be separated into bite-size pieces. Serve over rice, noodles or your favorite grain.

MAKE AHEAD: This stew can be made and refrigerated up to 4 days.

VEAL AND MUSHROOM RAGOUT

Servings: 7 to 8

6 to 9 teaspoons olive oil

1 large onion, finely diced (8 ounces, about 2 cups diced)

Salt

1 1/2 pounds sliced assorted mushrooms, such as cremini, white button and oyster (see headnote)

1 2/3 pounds lean stewing veal, cut into 1- to 11/2-inch chunks

1/4 cup flour

2 cups homemade or no-salt-added chicken broth

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup marsala

Water, as needed

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in an ovenproof 4- to-5-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and salt to taste. Adjust the heat so the onion cooks but does not brown. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the onion is soft.

Meanwhile, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large, shallow nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add a portion of mushrooms, filling but not crowding the pan. Stir-fry the mushrooms just until they start to brown. Transfer to the pot with the onion; it’s OK if the onion is still cooking. Repeat, adding oil as needed, until all of the mushrooms have been cooked and transferred to the Dutch oven.

Working in batches, add the veal to the (now-empty) pan and cook for a few minutes, turning the pieces as needed to promote even browning and adding oil to the pan as needed.

While the meat is cooking, stir the flour into the onion-mushroom mixture in the Dutch oven so the flour is absorbed. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust the heat so the mixture is barely bubbling. Transfer the veal pieces to the mushroom-onion mixture as they are done.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

When all of the meat has been browned, keep the saute pan over medium-high heat and add the marsala to deglaze the pan. Use a spatula to dislodge any bits from the bottom of the pan, then pour the wine and the bits into the stew in the Dutch oven, stirring to incorporate, Add water as needed so the meat and mushrooms are barely submerged. Cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook the stew for about 2 hours; the veal should be fork-tender.

Serve immediately, garnished with the chopped parsley. Or cool, transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Nutrition information per serving: 210 calories, 23 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, 160 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar.