Elizabeth Knowlton has adapted the recipe from her grandmother’s 1934 edition of “The Boston Cooking School Cook Book.” She says the chowder only gets better the longer it sits in the refrigerator (within reason), which lets the flavors meld. She suggests either making it a day ahead, or the morning of the day you plan to serve it for dinner.

Serves 6

3 slices thick bacon, chopped

2 leeks

1/2 medium onion, chopped

Salt and pepper

2 cups bite-sized pieces red potato

2 cups chopped carrots

1/2 cup chopped celery

2 (15-ounce) cans Bar Harbor brand fish
   stock

1 pound haddock, cut into small pieces

4 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

2 cups whole milk

Render the bacon in a 4- to 6-quart, heavy-duty soup pot or Dutch oven, then set the bacon pieces aside; leave 2 tablespoons rendered bacon fat in the pot and discard the rest.

Keep the white root end of the leek, discarding all but 2 inches of the green tops and any funky outer layers. Slice the leeks in half lengthwise, and then slice the halves into quarters. Then slice the leeks thinly crosswise and rinse the pieces thoroughly.

Saute the leeks and onion in the reserved bacon fat until they soften, about 5 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the potatoes, carrots and celery to the pot and stir. Pour in the fish stock and bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Sprinkle in the parsley and thyme, and stir. Add the haddock to the pot, cover and simmer on low another 10 minutes.

Before serving, add the whole milk and heat through. Sprinkle each serving with some of the reserved bacon.