Friday, December 13, 2013
The Nosh Twinkie/Photo courtesy of Dan Lindberg
Nosh Kitchen Bar in Portland, known for its over-the-top menu items like the Holy Hand Grenade - a bacon cheeseburger between two Holy Donut potato donuts, with Maine maple syrup and bacon dust - doesn't go light and healthy when it comes to dessert, either. Pastry chef Dan Lindberg has just rolled out what chef/owner Jason Loring calls "snacking desserts:" a homemade candy bar; s'mores bar; and just in time for the Hostess Twinkie's triumphant return to store shelves, the Nosh Twinkie.
"The cake itself is a cross between poundcake and angel food cake," said Lindberg, who starts with a poundcake recipe and folds beaten egg whites in. "It's spongy, but kinda dense, but still light and airy." He bakes the cake in flexible silicone molds. The texture of the filling was harder to get right, he said, adding that he adjusts the recipe depending on the humidity. Its base is shortening and sugar with a "small amount of marshmallow Fluff," which makes all the difference.
To fill the cakes, he hollows the middles out with a metal tube and using a "frosting injector gun." For now, two Nosh Twinkies are served on a plate topped with whipped cream and rainbow sprinkles, but the new desserts will soon be presented in cellophane bags sealed with stickers.
While Lindberg and Loring were having fun coming up with the Nosh Twinkie, the brand name bad-boy was spending his sabbatical right here in Maine. Yes, that was Twinkie you saw at the Color Run. MaineToday.com has the story (and photos) to prove it.Tweet
Meredith Goad has harvested oysters on the Chesapeake Bay, eaten reindeer in Finland and sipped hot chai in the Himalayas. She writes the weekly Soup to Nuts column and enjoys a good cocktail.
Susan Axelrod's food writing career began in the kitchen; she owned a restaurant and catering business before turning to journalism more than a decade ago. To relax, she bakes, gardens and hikes with her husband and their two dogs. A newcomer to Portland, she is an online content producer for the Press Herald.
Susan can be contacted at 791-6310 or saxelrod [at] pressherald.com.
On Twitter: @susansaxelrod