June 3, 2012

Many (un)happy returns

Online clothing retailers seek a solution to their biggest headache: Poor fit.

By FARHAD MANJOO Slate magazine

(Continued from page 1)

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But how can it do so? The fit problem has always plagued online apparel retailers, especially when it comes to women's clothes -- a far bigger market than men's apparel, and one in which sizing is even more treacherous. Because most women's clothes carry numerical rather than measured sizes -- that is, women's jeans are listed as a size 10, while men's are labeled with a 30-inch waist -- it's more difficult for a woman to figure out her size in a specific brand. Numeric sizing also allows for wider variations in sizes between brands, and changes over time, too.

There's a widespread assumption that fitting problems are caused by "vanity sizing," a phenomenon in which clothing manufacturers steadily, intentionally inflate sizes in order to make women feel better about their clothes. ("Hey, this size 2 dress fits me! I should buy it!") But many clothing size experts say vanity sizing is a myth. Sizes change over time because of the changes in the way manufacturers make clothes, and also because people have changed over time -- we've become bigger, so our clothes have, too.

A bunch of firms have come up with ideas for bringing sanity back to clothing sizes. At the peak of the last tech boom in 2000, I interviewed a startup that wanted everyone to get body-scanned -- you'd walk into a booth at a mall, get prodded with radio waves, and then emerge with an electronic receipt of your exact dimensions. The dimensions could then be fed to online retailers, who'd be able to figure out which of their clothes would fit your profile.

The company that I spoke to seems to have disappeared, but a firm called Me-Ality is still pushing the scanning idea. It has set up dozens of scanning booths across the country, but their utility is limited, since few sites list clothes by your scanned size. (You can visit the company's site for a shopping guide based on your measurements.)

Another startup, back then, wanted to use your old clothes to find new ones. You'd tell the company which brands and styles fit you perfectly, and it would tell you what sizes worked for you in other brands.

That idea lives on in a firm called True Fit, whose technology Macy's began using on its site last year. After you tell the site what's in your closet and give it some basic information about your body type, it compares your size to its data on thousands of other clothes. Then, when you browse the Macy's site, you're given a score suggesting how well each item will fit based on your other clothes. The system keeps track of what you buy -- and what you return -- over time, so it constantly improves its predictions. The Wall Street Journal reported that in a test with 400,000 users on one premium-denim sales site, True Fit reduced returns from 50 percent to 20 percent.

Then there's the most basic solution to the sizing problem: Get out a tape measure and take your own measurements. Retailers have shied away from this method because customers find it annoying (and there's some worry that people will lie about their own sizes), but I've found it works really well.

In the last year I purchased several shirts and a few pants from several online stores that make custom-fit clothing for men. Sure, it was a hassle to precisely survey my body, but you've only got to do it once, and it was worth it. Getting clothes that fit perfectly is surprisingly thrilling; it makes you feel so good that you can't stop yourself from buying more.

That's why Amazon would be wise to implement one of these ideas. Body-scanning is pretty wacky, but technology like True Fit's -- or even the trusty old tape measure -- seems like it could work wonders for the site. If Amazon cataloged its clothing by size, and if it used your measurements to predict apparel that would fit you, its sprawling clothing store would be pretty hard to resist -- the promised land of perfect pants that we've all been searching for.

Manjoo covers technology for Slate.


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