Thursday, April 17, 2014
By John Golden
In an otherwise strident world of superstar chefs, two humbler culinarians are holding sway in the kitchen of Portland newcomer Empire Chinese. Here this dynamic team sparkles in a glittering galaxy of master Chinese chefs who have been producing stunning Cantonese food to the delight of Portlanders clamoring to have it.
In just a short time, Empire Chinese has become a go-to destination for excellent authentic Cantonese fare.
Gordon Chibroski/Staff Photographer
In the first half of the 1900s, Empire Chop Suey was a fixture on Congress Street in Portland, distinguished by the large red sign.
Colorized photo courtesy of Portland Magazine
WHERE: 575 Congress St., Portland; 747-5063; portlandempire.com
HOURS: Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesday)
CREDIT CARDS: Yes
PRICE RANGE: Lunch and dinner: $5 to $19
KIDS: Yes, welcome
RESERVATIONS: Yes, for parties of four or more
BAR: Full bar with special cocktail menu, wine and beer
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
BOTTOM LINE: In a thoroughly lively venue for authentic Cantonese cooking (many dishes are old family recipes of the dim-sum and stir-fry chefs), don’t miss the pastrami egg rolls, Peking duck buns, steamed pork buns, honey-walnut shrimp and a menu of eight to 10 dim-sum preparations. Standout large plates include lobster longevity noodles, Spicy wok-fried jalapeno shrimp, sizzling teriyaki chicken, marinated fish fillet and nightly specials. Service is first-rate, and the wait staff is fluent in everything the kitchen produces.
Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value: ★ Poor ★★ Fair ★★★ Good ★★★★ Excellent ★★★★★ Extraordinary. The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.
Chef number one is Li Bing Tian – “Uncle Tian” – who is Empire’s dim sum arbiter, brought over from San Francisco. He’s been a master of his trade for nearly 40 years.
Chef number two is Yue Chan, who creates all the wonderful stir-fry dishes and is a master chef of long standing.
That in a nutshell explains why Empire Chinese, which opened in mid-September, is considered one of the hottest restaurants in Portland. But you don’t need to read such fleeting food-gossip dispatches to know what’s already so obvious.
Empire holds a significant place in the annals of Chinese restaurants in Portland. It opened in 1916 as Empire Chop Suey – billed as Portland’s first deluxe Chinese restaurant –and ran for nearly 40 years at the same location in which its revival now stands. It had a striking two-story vertical sign spelling out “chop suey” in big red letters.
The dining space was upstairs then, where “ladies and gentlemen” were served in a white-clothed dining room, while another room was reserved for men to enjoy their drinks, meal and cigars.
It was further immortalized by artist Edward Hopper’s iconic work, “Chop Suey” (1929), a depiction of two urban women dining together in sullen repose.
At first it was assumed that the restaurant in the painting was inspired by a second-floor lookalike on Columbus Circle in Manhattan whose imposing “chop suey” sign hung similarly from the side of the building. But many art historians are now convinced that Hopper had the image of Portland’s Empire Chop Suey in mind because of these vital statistics: the red-lettered vertical sign, which figures prominently in the painting, as does the two extant bay windows through which the eye catches this vista. More importantly, Hopper and his wife summered in Cape Elizabeth from 1927 to ’29, and as big theater goers presumably visited Portland’s newly anchored theater district in the year (1927) when the State Theatre on the next block opened so close to chop suey territory.
Today’s iteration at the former Empire Dine and Dance is a full-body makeover done in a vaguely 1950s style with comfortable seating at booths and banquettes. Co-owners Theresa Chan (her father supervises the stir-fry station) and Todd Bernard (founder of Space Gallery) set a mood that has made this more than just a carousel in which hipsters preen. Rather, it produces some of the most authentic Cantonese cookery north of Boston’s Chinatown.
Don’t cool your heels at the door, however, if you’re expecting to find the familiar cliches of Americanized Chinese dishes like crab Rangoon, sweet and sour pork and other old standbys from the Column A and B era.
One standout among the small and large plates is the pastrami-Reuben egg roll ($6), an amusing culinary riff on Katz’s Deli meets Chinese take-out. Within its super-crusty shell is local beef pastrami, asparagus and cabbage. It’s served with a honey-mustard dipping sauce. It connotes a very new-wave Sino-American style launched by such Asian chefs as Joe Ng of RedFarm in New York and Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese renown in San Francisco.
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click image to enlarge
Many art historians believe the restaurant was the setting for the Edward Hopper painting “Chop Suey” (1929), based on the fact that Hopper and his wife summer in Cape Elizabeth from 1927 to ’29.