Saturday, March 8, 2014
By NANCY HEISER
(Continued from page 1)
Bueno Loco has taken over the space in a Route 1 strip mall in Falmouth that was once home to O'Naturals. It now has a prominent bar and features colors of lime, orange and yellow.
Gabe Souza / Staff Photographer
240 Route 1, Falmouth
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily; until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: All major
PRICE RANGE: Appetizers, $7 to $14; Mexican classics and entrees, $11 to $24
VEGETARIAN: Vegetarians, vegans and the gluten-averse will find much to like. It's all labeled on the colorful menu.
GLUTEN-FREE: Yes, plenty of choices
KIDS: Yes, separate menu
RESERVATIONS: For five or more only
BAR: Nice cocktail list with drinks that use infused tequilas made in-house. Five beer taps include Mexican and local choices. Small wine list includes Chilean, Argentinian and Spanish.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
BOTTOM LINE: Bueno Loco serves fresh, high-quality Mexican fare with an emphasis on food with Mayan and/or Yucatan influences in a chic, casual atmosphere. Many dishes are intriguingly spiced and have a slightly sweet touch. The ambitious kitchen offers 10 different homemade salsas. Drinks and desserts are winners too. Vegan-friendly.
Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value:
The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.
House-made desserts were creative, multifaceted plates with mixed textures and creative complementary flavors.
Excellent light and crispy churros came with a scoop of sweet potato ice cream, spiced similarly to a pumpkin pie, and a chocolate dipping sauce. A delicate flan came topped with chunky, house-made papaya chutney and a crunchy almond shortbread cookie that melted away with each bite -- superb accents to a respectable centerpiece. (Both desserts cost $7.)
The distinct textures, colors and flavors of the food are turning heads at this restaurant, which has been open since early February. We experienced service that was friendly but had a few missteps.
This included not only the mistaken ceviche, but also a hiccup at the finale. The restaurant's lovely, rich Mayan coffee -- its Wicked Joe's brewed with cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice -- was tepid. (It was made at 5 p.m. said our server, unprompted; it was now 7:30. Maybe there's a way to correct this?) In short, the front of the house did not flow with ease on the night we visited.
When these minor kinks iron out, this spot may merit another half star. Even now, it is drawing plenty of customers to its "crazy good" dishes.
Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer and editor. She can be reached at:nancyheiser.com