December 10, 2013

Dine Out Maine: Serving great Cantonese, long may this Empire reign

By John Golden

(Continued from page 1)

click image to enlarge

In just a short time, Empire Chinese has become a go-to destination for excellent authentic Cantonese fare.

Gordon Chibroski/Staff Photographer

In the first half of the 1900s, Empire Chop Suey was a fixture on Congress Street in Portland, distinguished by the large red sign.

Colorized photo courtesy of Portland Magazine

Additional Photos Below

Empire Chinese

★★★★ 1/2

WHERE: 575 Congress St., Portland; 747-5063; portlandempire.com

HOURS: Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Monday (closed Tuesday)

CREDIT CARDS: Yes

PRICE RANGE: Lunch and dinner: $5 to $19

VEGETARIAN: Yes

GLUTEN-FREE: Yes

KIDS: Yes, welcome

RESERVATIONS: Yes, for parties of four or more

BAR: Full bar with special cocktail menu, wine and beer

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

BOTTOM LINE: In a thoroughly lively venue for authentic Cantonese cooking (many dishes are old family recipes of the dim-sum and stir-fry chefs), don’t miss the pastrami egg rolls, Peking duck buns, steamed pork buns, honey-walnut shrimp and a menu of eight to 10 dim-sum preparations. Standout large plates include lobster longevity noodles, Spicy wok-fried jalapeno shrimp, sizzling teriyaki chicken, marinated fish fillet and nightly specials. Service is first-rate, and the wait staff is fluent in everything the kitchen produces.

Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value: Poor ★★ Fair ★★★ Good ★★★  Excellent ★★★★★ Extraordinary. The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.

For a great lunch, start with a bowl of Empire’s stunning wonton soup ($5). This is an enriched duck consomme holding wonton wrappers filled with ground pork and shrimp. Pair it with an order of char siu bao ($5.50) – steamed buns filled with barbecued pork in hoisin sauce. The buns are feather light because the kitchen uses special white pastry flour available only from a supplier in New York’s Chinatown.

At my most recent dinner with three friends in tow, the four of us feasted on 10 dishes, each as good as the next. We started with the Chinatown roast pork ($7) – boneless barbecue pork that’s sweetly pungent with five-spice powder, star anise and shacha sauce, a typical Chinese barbecue brew loaded with ingredients as diverse as fermented shrimp paste to garlic and sugar. New on the menu that night was pan-fried pork and shrimp dumplings ($5.50), followed by the sticky rice pocket ($5) – a molded square of rice filled with chicken, Chinese sausage, pork, shrimp and shitake wrapped and steamed in a banana leaf. A lighter interlude included an order of shrimp and pork shu-mai dumplings ($5.50) coupled with spinach dumplings ($5) filled with water chestnuts and mushrooms.

To accompany our large plates we ordered the garlic green beans ($6), which are quickly stir-fried to retain crispness and color ($6). A ceremonious plate of honey-walnut whole shrimp ($7.50) that’s coated in a citrus-yuzu mayonnaise was a crowd pleaser.

A succession of large plates included the sizzling teriyaki chicken ($14), which is marinated boneless thighs, followed by a stir-fry of beef with wide rice noodles ($14).

Unfortunately, the kitchen ran out of our party’s favorite dish – lobster longevity noodles in tequila sauce ($19). It’s a show-stopper preparation in both appearance and flavor. A whole lobster is cut into pieces, dredged in flour, fried in a wok with ginger and scallions and basted in a luxurious sauce of the lobster liquor and tequila. It’s reconstituted into the shape of a split lobster half and served with wide rice noodles.

Instead, the kitchen didn’t let us down with its unique fillet of flounder treatment ($18). The fillets are marinated in fermented black beans, the whole carcass stretched over a frame, dipped in an egg batter and fried, leaving the meat between the bones and skin intact; you can eat the whole fish, bones and all. The fillets are put back on the batter-dipped frame, looking like an ornamental bow of a ship. All of which is a voyage of inspired food that’s worth taking many times over.

John Golden, who lives in Portland, writes about food, dining and lifestyle subjects for local and national publications. He can be reached at:

jdgmaine@gmail.com

 

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Additional Photos

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Many art historians believe the restaurant was the setting for the Edward Hopper painting “Chop Suey” (1929), based on the fact that Hopper and his wife summer in Cape Elizabeth from 1927 to ’29.

  


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