October 27, 2013

Dine Out Maine: White Wolf Inn

White Wolf Inn has character (and characters) and hearty food at 20th-century prices

By Nancy Heiser

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The White Wolf Inn in Stratton

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The White Wolf Inn in Stratton is a rural Maine outpost with funky decor and good, hearty, reasonably priced food.

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White Wolf Inn

WHERE: 146 Main St. (Route 27), Stratton. 246-2922; thewhitewolfinn.com

***

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday, Thursday and Friday; 4 to 8 p.m. Wednesday; 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; closed Tuesday

CREDIT CARDS: MC and Visa. Cash preferred. ATM on premises

PRICE RANGE: $3.50 to $28.95

VEGETARIAN: Yes

GLUTEN-FREE: Yes, including Redbridge, a gluten-free beer

KIDS: Welcome

RESERVATIONS: For large parties only

BAR: Full, with funky decor, seven taps, microbrews and low prices. Four standard wines offered by bottle or glass at $4.25; several other wines rotate as specials

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: One step to enter, portable ramp available

BOTTOM LINE: A quirky and welcoming outpost in western Maine, the White Wolf Inn is full of character and characters. It serves very good and filling home-style food and drink, some of it coming in at prices that seem to belong to a few decades past.

Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value: *Poor **Fair ***Good ****Excellent HHHHHExtraordinary. The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.

Dessert options were many and included a collection of comforting standards and a few unusual ones, such as fried cheesecake. We choose the strawberry rhubarb surprise. Delicious fruit compote filled fluffy yellow cake layers, all nicely warmed up and served with vanilla ice cream ($4.95).

After a late September day spent outdoors, we entered White Wolf Inn by default, as our original choice was closed. We left knowing we’d be back for more of its unpretentious and comforting food that filled the belly and satisfied. When it comes to portions, kitchen skill and personality, the White Wolf Inn serves it up big.

On another note: This is my last column for Dine Out Maine. I’m moving on to a new endeavor.

The state of Maine, an exceptional food region, is the source of so many riches from sea and land. It’s been a privilege to write about the brilliant collection of hard-working and creative people bringing out the best of them. The state’s culinary scene, in much-heralded Portland and elsewhere, continues to grow and inspire.

Thank you to my tolerant dining companions over the last two and a half years. You’ve let me reach over for tastes and then discuss our meal well into the night. And a stand-up toast of appreciation to Maine’s chefs and restaurant staffs. I look forward to future visits and getting acquainted in a more relaxed manner. Salut.

Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer and editor. She can be reached at nancyheiser.com.

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