January 8

Fish in a bag a classic choice for good reasons

It’s hard to go wrong with baked salmon in a parchment wrap with citrus, olives and chilies.

By Sara Moulton
The Associated Press

Fish en papillote is the elegant-sounding name of a staple recipe of classic French cuisine. Translated into English, it becomes the much less elegant-sounding – “fish in a bag.” By any name, however, this method of baking fish is a smash.

click image to enlarge

Baking salmon in a bag allows the juices from the fish and the other ingredients to mingle and become a wonderful sauce.

The Associated Press

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The salmon is served with the olives, chilies and juices spooned on top.

The Associated Press

Typically, the fish is combined with vegetables and herbs, some butter or oil, and often some wine. All of this is wrapped up in a piece of kitchen parchment and baked. The parchment keeps the flavor and moisture trapped inside during cooking, allowing the juices from the fish and the other ingredients to mingle and become a wonderful sauce.

And because the parchment is stick-resistant, the recipe requires very little fat. The small amount of oil in this recipe is there for taste and texture only.

In this recipe, the relatively few ingredients I’ve added to the salmon are in the service of the sauce. But let’s say you wanted to make a whole meal in a bag, sort of like a high-toned TV dinner. In that case, you could add some substantial vegetables, for example sauteed mushrooms, steamed cooked potato cubes, blanched broccoli or carrots.

If you do add vegetables, they’ll need to be pre-cooked. The denser vegetables – such as carrots and broccoli – simply won’t have time to get tender during the 10 to 12 minutes of cooking needed by the salmon. Similarly, if wetter veggies – such as mushrooms and spinach – aren’t pre-cooked, they’ll release too much liquid in the packet and water down the sauce.

The only tricky part about cooking en papillote is that you can’t see when the fish is done. If you slice open the bag, you risk losing some of the delicious sauce that’s coming together. My solution is to start with the basic rule of baking fish: In a 400 F oven, give it 10 minutes of cooking time for every inch of thickness.

When I’m ready to test whether the fish is done, I stick a very sharp thin knife right through the parchment and down through the fish. No or little resistance? The fish is done. Significant resistance? Bake it for a few more minutes. And by the way, this test works well regardless of how you cook the fish.

Kitchen parchment – or even pre-made parchment paper bags – is widely available in the foil and plastic wrap aisle. And by the way, it’s also great for lining baking sheets when making cookies.

This recipe includes instructions on how to fold the paper to make a bag yourself, but if you can find the pre-made ones, grab them.

I experimented with a pre-made bag while testing this recipe and discovered that it worked perfectly well. You just layer all the ingredients in the bag, fold the bottom under to seal the package, and bake away.

The beauty of this dish, besides its deliciousness, is that it requires very little preparation and cooks in no time at all. I invite you to take this concept and run with it, making new recipes based on whichever fish and vegetables are in season. And by the way, much as I love wild salmon, it isn’t always in season. So check for sustainably raised farmed salmon, fresh or frozen.

SALMON BAKED IN A BAG WITH CITRUS, OLIVES AND CHILIES

Start to finish: 35 minutes

Servings: 4

1 small orange

1 lemon

Four skinless 6-ounce center cut salmon fillet pieces

1/4 cup chopped fresh rosemary

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup pitted and chopped olives, preferably oil-cured

1/2 serrano chili, thinly sliced crosswise

Heat the oven to 400 F.

(Continued on page 2)

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