December 4, 2013

‘Cooking Slow’ makes a convincing case for doing just that

The book earns a place on your list of ‘possibles,’ holiday-giftwise.

By Bonnie S. Benwick
The Washington Post

(Continued from page 2)

click image to enlarge

In his new book “Cooking Slow: Recipes for Slowing Down and Cooking More,” with photographs by Alan Benson, Andrew Schloss persuades us of the virtues of taking time to cook. Some dishes take 10 minutes to prepare before a lazy application of low and slow heat transforms them; others may take hours, if not days, to prepare.

The Washington Post

The popovers deflate quickly, so serve them straight out of the oven.

Adapted from “One Good Dish: The Pleasures of a Simple Meal,” by David Tanis (Artisan, 2013).

Make ahead: The batter needs to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 large eggs

1 cup whole or low-fat milk

1/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

1/3 cup water

¾ cup flour

¼ cup finely ground cornmeal (see headnote)

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Use half of the butter to generously grease whichever baking vessel you’ve chosen (see headnote). Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter.

Whisk together the eggs, milk, buttermilk and water in a mixing bowl.

Sift together the flour, cornmeal and salt in a separate container; gradually stir into the egg mixture to create a thin batter. Add the melted butter and whisk until the batter is smooth. Let stand for at least 30 minutes at room temperature.

Heat the buttered baking pan or dish in the oven for 5 minutes. Immediately pour about ¼ cup of the batter into each well or ramekin. (If using the latter, place them on a baking sheet.) Bake until the popovers are puffed and well browned, 25 to 30 minutes.

Serve right away.

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