January 25, 2012

Citrus season: Time to practice tart arts

It's prime time for lemons, oranges, limes and grapefruits, so add a little sunshine to your cooking.

By MARY-LIZ SHAW, McClatchy Newspapers

(Continued from page 3)

Citrus with food
click image to enlarge

Clementine slices cook on the bottom of this clementine cake, but the finished product is then inverted, showing off the candied citrus, and slices are topped with a dollop of cheesecake cream.

McClatchy Newspapers

When ready to cook, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place tenderloins on a shallow baking pan, 2 inches apart. Roast in preheated oven 40 to 45 minutes, until pork registers 160 degrees on a meat thermometer. Let stand 5 minutes, then slice to serve. Pork will be light pink in center.

Adapted from About.com.


A South American favorite that originated in Peru, ceviche combines fresh raw fish or seafood with citrus juices to "cook" the fish over a long marinating period of up to several hours; that is, the acid in the juices alters the proteins in the fish, turning it opaque as if it were cooked. Citrus juices do not kill bacteria to the same extent that heat does, so it is safest to use cooked or partially cooked fish and marinate for a shorter period.

This recipe calls for flash-cooking shrimp in boiling water before adding it to the citrus mixture.

Servings: 8 to 10

3 pounds medium tail-on shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), shelled and deveined (not frozen)

8 ribs celery, strings removed and julienned

12 green onions, julienned

1 carrot, peeled and julienned

1 red bell pepper, seeds and membrane removed, julienned

½ cup lemon juice (about 3 lemons)

½ cup lime juice (about 4 limes)

2 large cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons coarse salt

½ teaspoon dried fennel (ground) or tarragon

2 jalapeno or serrano peppers, seeded and thinly sliced

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or dill

Fill a large pot or Dutch oven with water and bring to a rapid boil. Drop in shrimp and blanch 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and cool.

Place celery, green onions, carrot and bell pepper in bowl with ice water until very crisp, up to 1 hour.

In a nonreactive bowl, combine lemon and lime juices, garlic, salt, fennel or tarragon and hot peppers. Add olive oil and mix well. Drain julienned vegetables thoroughly and add to citrus mixture, along with cooled shrimp. Marinate 10 to 15 minutes. Do not allow to marinate longer as shrimp flesh may begin to break down in the citrus juices.

Sprinkle with chopped cilantro or dill and serve.

Adapted from "The Art of South American Cooking" (1991) by Peruvian chef Felipe Rojas-Lombardi.


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