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The Maine Ingredient: Coupla one-pots to savor, one silkily stylish, the other humble

By Anne Mahle

The flavors in these two recipes couldn't be more different, one silky, creamy and elegant, and the other salty, hearty and down-to-earth. Both, however, are a meal baked in a single pot.

SCALLOP AND CHANTERELLE POT PIE

This recipe calls for chanterelle mushrooms, which can be found in Maine from early spring to fall after a period of wet weather to dampen the soil.

The earthy, apricot-colored chanterelles that are in this recipe came from a mushroom CSA of which we are lucky to be a part. Every week, one pound of musty gold (or brown or black or gray) would arrive in a brown paper bag.

As with most CSAs, the distinct species was a mystery right up until the top of the bag was uncurled and released the moist scent of woods, pine, moss and earth. Sometimes I used them immediately; if I wasn't able to get to them within a day or two, I dried them.

By draping a towel over a flat basket and spreading the mushrooms in one thin layer, it gave them enough air circulation to dry within a week or so. I then transferred them to a jar or a bowl covered with plastic wrap. This works well with chanterelles, concentrating the flavor and, when reconstituted with hot water, bringing a toothy texture and a darker color that in no way diminishes their specialness.

This recipe is forgiving enough to substitute another mushroom, dried or fresh; just make sure you use one that doesn't overpower the delicate scallops. Button or shiitake would be good choices.

1½ cups diced celery, about 2 stalks

1½ cups diced onion, about 1 medium onion

2 tablespoons butter

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 ounce, about 2 cups, chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and sliced lengthwise if large, reconstituted with hot water if dried

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup flour

2 cups fish or clam stock

½ cup white wine

¾ cup heavy cream

Several grinds of fresh white pepper

1 pound sea scallops, small muscle removed; if they are large, quarter them

1 pie dough recipe or one sheet of pate brisee

Heat a medium stock pot over medium-high heat. Melt the butter and then add the celery and onions. Saute for 7 to 10 minutes or until they are translucent and soft. Add the thyme and the mushrooms (fresh or dried and reconstituted), salt and pepper. Saute for another 2 to 3 minutes. At this point, make sure you are organized with flour, liquid ingredients and whisk at hand. Add the flour and whisk until the all of the flour has dampened. Add all of the liquid at once and whisk immediately and well until you can see that the flour has been incorporated and there are no lumps in the sauce. If you wait more than a few beats, you've lost the game and will have a lumpy sauce. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Roll out the dough to ¼ inch thick, using as little flour as you can to ensure that it doesn't stick to the counter or the rolling pin. Using a 14-ounce bowl or ramekin (holds 1¾ cup and serves 5 people), turn the bowl upside down on the dough and cut a circle ½ inch wider than the bowl. Repeat four times.

When the sauce has simmered for 10 minutes, turn off the heat, remove the thyme sprigs and add the uncooked scallops. Ladle into the bowls or ramekins and cover with the dough, pressing firmly along the edges and down the side of the bowl to seal.

Bake for 25 minutes or until the crust is golden.

Serves 4 to 6 depending on the size of the ramekin

PIE CRUST

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon salt

1/3 cup butter

3 tablespoons ice cold water or more if needed

Combine the flour, salt and butter in a medium bowl; cut in well with a pastry knife. Add water and mix until dough pulls away from the bowl and forms a ball.

Makes 1 crust, enough crust for 5 to 6 ramekins.

SAUERKRAUT AND KIELBASA SHEPHERD'S PIE

This recipe is hopelessly old-fashioned, but it reminds me of my mom and grandma. One day, I had a hankering for both of these women who have loved me so well. and this recipe was born. While it's not as good as a sit-down with my grandma, it'll have to do until we meet again.

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups onions

¼ teaspoon salt

16 ounces sauerkraut or 2 cups

1 pound kielbasa, cut into ¼-inch diagonal rounds

4 cups mashers (recipe below)

6 ounces cheddar cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large ovenproof skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and add the onions and then the salt. Saute the onions until translucent, about 7 to 10 minutes. Layer the sauerkraut, then the sausage, top with potatoes then cheese. Bake for 1 hour.

MASHERS

7 potatoes, or 3½ pounds russets, peeled and cut into large chunks

3 tablespoons butter

¼ cup whole milk

Salt and fresh black pepper

Place the potatoes in a medium stock pot. Cover the potatoes with salted water and bring to a boil. When the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, drain and return to the pot. Add butter and milk and mash all together either by hand, with a mixer or a potato ricer. Add salt and pepper as needed.

Makes enough for one pie.

Anne Mahle of Rockland is the author of "At Home, At Sea." She can be reached at: chefannie@mainewindjammer.com