March 27, 2013

Soup to Nuts: Devilishly delicious

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with your grandma’s deviled egg recipe, but as with most comfort-food classics, today’s chefs are taking the basic idea and running with it.

By Meredith Goad mgoad@pressherald.com
Staff Writer

(Continued from page 2)

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Skye Bonney, sous chef at The Black Birch in Kittery, presents three of her deviled egg specialties: From left, foie gras and truffle, chipotle and cocoa, and nicoise.

Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer

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Skye Bonney of The Black Birch in Kittery

Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer

Additional Photos Below

TIPS FOR MAKING PERFECT DEVILED EGGS

• Kathy Casey's top tip for making great deviled eggs is to never use "super-fresh eggs." They will be difficult to peel. Instead, use eggs that have been refrigerated for at least seven to 10 days. Letting them sit like this allows air to enter the egg and helps separate the membrane from the shell.

• Casey says the biggest mistake people make is overcooking the eggs, which leads to a dark green ring around the yolk and a "funky" taste. But there's some disagreement here. Skye Bonney thinks harder boiled eggs make for a better, not worse filling.

"I find the more cooked the yolk is, the fluffier and lighter the filling is," Bonney said. "If they're just barely set and they're still that dark yellow and the yolk still has some moisture in it, the filling is more dense."

• What method should you use to boil the eggs?

Casey recommends the tried-and-true method of adding cold water to 1 inch above the eggs in the pan, then bringing the water to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and cover. Let the eggs sit for 15 minutes, then rinse under cold water before peeling.

Here's Bonney's method: Let the eggs come to room temperature. Bring water to a boil in a pan, then lower the eggs into the boiling water. Let the water come back to a boil, then cover the pan and take it off the heat. Let the eggs sit for 12 minutes before draining and cooling.

• There's any number of ways you can mash the yolks and blend them with other ingredients. Bonney prefers a food processor for a lump-free filling. Casey suggests putting the filling through a ricer first for a really smooth yolk-and-mayo combination.

• Be sure to season the eggs correctly, Casey says. Taste the filling as you make it. Just using Kosher salt instead of table salt can make a big difference in taste.

• Put your filling into a pastry bag (you can buy disposable ones at a kitchen store if you don't want to invest in a professional one). This will be especially handy if you're making eggs for a crowd.

"You can make them way ahead easily if you store the filling in the pastry bag, and then just pipe them when you want them," Bonney said. "Otherwise they get that weird crust in a matter of hours."

Scoop the filling into the bag, and then tie off the end so the bag will be air tight.

• You probably won't have any leftovers. But if you do, how can you keep the eggs looking good while stored in your fridge? As Bonney noted above, it doesn't take long for the eggs to start looking old, tired and crusty.

Casey recommends lightly wetting a paper towel. Wring it out and place it gently over the eggs in the refrigerator.

"I've kept them in the refrigerator for two to three days," she said. "They're not as pretty, let me tell you, but they still taste good."

–  Meredith Goad, Staff Writer

YOU'LL FIND MORE creative deviled egg recipes on Kathy Casey's website at delishdeviledeggs.com.

TO LEARN MORE about The Black Birch, located at 2 Government St. in Kittery, go to theblackbirch.com.

Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a plain or large star tip, then pipe the mixture evenly into the egg white halves. Or fill the eggs with a spoon, dividing the filling evenly.

Top each egg half with a piece of asparagus.

BLOODY MARY DEVILED EGGS

These eggs transport the essence of the classic bloody Mary into a delightful little appetizer. All of the flavors are here: Olives, vodka, tomatoes, horseradish and Tabasco. Be sure to use prepared rather than creamed horseradish for the ultimate kick of heat.

Makes: 24

1 dozen hard-cooked eggs (recipe follows)

FILLING:

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/4 teaspoon celery seed

1/4 teaspoon salt

TOPPING:

1/2 cup tiny-diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons minced celery

4 teaspoons minced, pimento-stuffed green olives

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons vodka

Halve the eggs lengthwise and transfer the yolks to a mixing bowl. Set the egg white halves on a platter, cover and refrigerate.

With a fork, mash the yolks to a smooth consistency. Add the mayonnaise, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, celery seed and salt and mix until smooth. (You can also do this in a mixing bowl with a whip attachment.)

Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a plain or large star tip, then pipe the mixture evenly into the egg white halves. Or fill the eggs with a spoon, dividing the filling evenly.

To make the topping, in a small bowl, mix together the tomatoes, celery, olives, lemon juice and vodka. Top each egg half with about 1 teaspoon of the mixture.

HARD-COOKED EGGS

1 dozen large chicken eggs

Place the eggs in a large nonreactive saucepan and add cold water to 1 inch above the eggs. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit for 10 minutes. Remove from the stove and run cool water over the eggs in the pan until they are cooled. When cool, carefully peel them under running water.

Recipes from "D'Lish Deviled Eggs" by Kathy Casey, Andrews McMeel Publishing

BLACK BIRCH CARROT AND PICKLED GINGER DEVILED EGGS

12 eggs, hardboiled

3 carrots, sliced thin

1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

Salt to taste

1 teaspoon whole toasted cumin seed, ground (optional)

Small amount of oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 cup mayonnaise (preferably Hellman's)

Pickled ginger to garnish

In medium saucepan bring approximately 2 quarts of water to a boil. Carefully drop eggs into boiling water. When water returns to a boil, cover and remove from heat. Let sit for 12 minutes, then drain and cool. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs. Using a small paring knife, trim both the ends off the egg then cut through the middle. Reserve the yolks and the whites separately.

Gently cook the carrots in a small amount of oil. Season with salt, half the ground cumin and minced ginger. Cover and cook until very soft. Remove from heat and cool.

Place yolks in bowl of food processor and pulse until crumbly. Transfer to bowl. Puree carrot mixture in processor until fairly smooth. Add egg yolks, Dijon and half of the mayonnaise. Process until incorporated. Add remaining mayonnaise and process until smooth. Taste and adjust. Fill disposable pastry bag with filling and pipe into egg whites. Garnish with pickled ginger and a dusting of the ground cumin seed.

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Additional Photos

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Skye Bonney works away at a batch of her high-end deviled eggs in the kitchen at The Black Birch in Kittery.

Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer

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Skye Bonney’s carrot and pickled ginger deviled egg.

Shawn Patrick Ouellette/Staff Photographer

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Emerald asparagus and sweet onion deviled eggs from Kathy Casey’s recipe in “D’Lish Deviled Eggs.”

Photo by Kathy Casey Food Studios, from “D’Lish Deviled Eggs,” Andrews McMeel Publishing

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The bloody Mary deviled eggs created by chef Kathy Casey, author of “D’Lish Deviled Eggs: A Collection of Recipes from Creative to Classic.”

Photo by Kathy Casey Food Studios, from “D’Lish Deviled Eggs,” Andrews McMeel Publishing

  


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