September 5, 2012

Appel on Wine: Misunderstood, Lambrusco not your parents' Riunite

By JOE APPEL

(Continued from page 1)

Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco di Sorbara NV, $18 (Wicked). Most Lambruscos taste bracingly fresh. This is even fresher than most, just so clean and alive. Sour cherry and dried cranberry fruit come at first, and then an Aperol-like bitterness redolent of rhubarb and orange peel. Lightly sparkling.

Barbolini Terre Estensi Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro NV, $17 (Wicked). This is the Syrah of Lambruscos: full-bodied and potent (though 12 percent alcohol), only barely bubbly, with a black/purple grape character, dryly grapey in a pure, luscious, deep way, like a preserve. The grape notes are followed by those of tar and black olives, with a bitter chocolate finish. The second day I drank it (yes, well-capped sparkling wines can have a successful second day), the wine had taken on coffee and caramel flavors. Amazing.

Luciano Saetti Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce 2010, $20 (Mariner). Lambrusco Salamino is named for the salami-like shape the grape clusters grow in, and yes, Italians drink Lambrusco with cured meats, but I swear that this stunning wine, made with minimal manipulation and in traditional style from organically grown grapes, with secondary fermentation in bottle rather than tank, tastes like soppressata in liquid form. It's gamey, herbal, cheesy and oily. It represents, therefore, the entire culture of Lambrusco at one fell sip.

Joe Appel works at Rosemont Market. His blog, soulofwine.com, continues the conversation, and he can be reached at: soulofwine.appel@gmail.com

 

Were you interviewed for this story? If so, please fill out our accuracy form

Send question/comment to the editors




Further Discussion

Here at PressHerald.com we value our readers and are committed to growing our community by encouraging you to add to the discussion. To ensure conscientious dialogue we have implemented a strict no-bullying policy. To participate, you must follow our Terms of Use.

Questions about the article? Add them below and we’ll try to answer them or do a follow-up post as soon as we can. Technical problems? Email them to us with an exact description of the problem. Make sure to include:
  • Type of computer or mobile device your are using
  • Exact operating system and browser you are viewing the site on (TIP: You can easily determine your operating system here.)




 

Blogs

More PPH Blogs