Friday, December 6, 2013
By KATHY MATHESON The Associated Press
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Calif. - We had been traveling for hours -- six by plane from Philadelphia to San Francisco, then nearly four more in a car through city, suburbs, farmland and forest -- when we glimpsed our reward from a turnout in the mountain road.
Yosemite Valley as seen from Tunnel View with three of the park’s best-known natural attractions: El Capitan summit on the left, the granite peak known as Half Dome in the distant center and Bridalveil Fall on the right.
Photos by The Associated Press
The pathway to Yosemite Falls.
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The vista of Yosemite Valley stunned me: a majestic waterfall, soaring granite and a winding river flowing through an endless stretch of pine trees.
I smiled, feeling oddly vindicated by its Brigadoon-like appearance. Yosemite had been an unusual choice for a vacation; my husband and I usually opt for beach resorts when we want to escape Philly for a few days.
Now, after such a long journey, Yosemite had already left us with an indelible image -- and we hadn't even checked into the lodge yet. In fact, we had barely gotten out of the car.
I had sold my skeptical spouse on the idea by calling it a beginner's visit to a national park, a nature trip for city people -- we'd do the same stuff we do at home, like walking and biking, only with different scenery.
I had been to Yosemite twice before in the early 1980s. Then, as a tween growing up in Los Angeles, I didn't think it was all that special; it was just a forest a few hours away where everyone went camping. Big deal.
As an adult, Yosemite became simply the place in those ubiquitous Ansel Adams prints. But my interest was rekindled by relatives' recent photos taken at the park, making me wonder if I should go back to see the gushing waterfalls, open meadows, towering rocks and rushing streams -- and if it could be done without sleeping in a tent.
The answers were yes and yes.
We stayed at the centrally located Yosemite Lodge, which as park novices was probably the smartest thing we did. Not only did it have the comforts of home (Wi-Fi, cable and flat-screen TV, plus several on-site food options), we only had to walk about a city block for a spectacular view of Yosemite Falls.
An easy path led us to the bottom of the lower fall, which was impressive enough that we skipped the strenuous, hours-long hike to the top of the upper fall.
We then took a short walk to get lunch in Yosemite Village, which features a museum, visitors center, gallery, post office, courthouse, deli and general store.
After lunch, we hopped on the park's free shuttle to the start of the Mist Trail.
The 1.5-mile roundtrip hike to the bottom of Vernal Fall was more of a workout because it was partly uphill, but the view was worth it.
Still jet-lagged, we turned back without braving the additional 500 mist-drenched steps to the top.
We shuttled back to the village for coffee and, at sunset, walked to a nearby meadow to take pictures of iconic Half Dome.
The next day, we drove to Merced Grove for a 3-mile roundtrip trek to see giant sequoias, trees that are taller (and certainly older) than some urban high-rises.
We later got sprayed by the water at Bridalveil Fall -- an easy walk from the designated parking lot -- and took a quick drive up to a scenic overlook called Tunnel View.
On our last day, we rented bikes and rode out to Mirror Lake. I had remembered being enchanted by its reflective nature as a fifth-grader, but now not so much. The lake has shrunk to pond size and is on its way to becoming a meadow.
Still, the trail offered an impressive close-up of Half Dome, the park's iconic granite summit, and bike riding on dedicated paths among tall pines and flowing waterways was priceless.
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