Friday, December 6, 2013
With last year's glut of lobsters and plummeting prices still a vivid memory, Maine lobstermen are hatching strategies to cultivate new markets and more customers for the state's leading fishery.
Alex Todd is pretty happy with last year's lobster catch and the earlier season for shedders as he takes a break from dragging for scallops around the waters of Bailey Island and stops at Cooks Wharf in Bailey Island.
Gordon Chibroski / Staff Photographer
Lobstermen expect another big harvest this year, but it's unclear whether it will begin early again, said Marianne La-Croix, acting director of the Maine Lobster Promotion Council, an industry-funded organization in Portland.
"Obviously," she said, "we don't want to be in the same situation" as last year, when the lobster harvest soared but prices for fishermen took a dive to their lowest point since the mid-1990s.
In 2012, the season for shedders – soft-shell lobsters – started four to five weeks early. That brought Maine and other U.S. fisheries into competition with Canada in late May and June, said Rick Wahle, research associate professor in the School of Marine Sciences at the University of Maine.
Wahle said processors customarily handle the lobster harvest from Canadian waters, which occurs in the winter, well into May. When Maine's lobster season started more than a month early, there weren't enough buyers.
"The so-called glut brought the price down," Wahle said.
Even though the timing of the harvest didn't jibe completely with the processing demand, LaCroix said, all of the Maine lobster was marketed. "Not at the price everyone's happy with," she acknowledged, but it still was sold.
Within the next month, the Lobster Promotion Council and other lobstermen's organizations will begin mapping out specific plans to expand markets and broaden their customer base.
"With a little more preparation ... building a little bit of demand ... more processors will be on line earlier this year," LaCroix said.
The organization hopes to generate media attention to help consumers better understand pricing and accentuate the long history of the fishery, and the partnership between lobstermen and government.
One plan, initiated by lobstermen, is a charity event in the New York-New Jersey area, for which Maine fishermen will donate lobsters for the survivors of Superstorm Sandy. The event will be a much-needed boost to that region, and potentially will open a new market, LaCroix said.
One Portland company, Calendar Islands Maine Lobster, is working to move beyond the wholesale market by introducing new retail products.
The company, a fishermen's cooperative that started as a wholesale operation and now sells mostly into retail channels, handles everything "from boat to end sale," said its president, John Jordan.
He said the only realistic solution is to create demand for Maine lobsters in a different form. His company, for example, is introducing products including shelled lobster tails on cedar planks, to be grilled.
The products join a line of prepared lobster foods, including quiches, rangoons, split tails and "naked lobster" – all the meat but no shell.
"We've got to take Maine on the road," Jordan said. "Maine has a fantastic identity in the food world."
He said the high volume of lobster dictates a transition to a global market.
If prices stay in decline, lobstermen really have only two choices, said Wahle, the UMaine researcher: They can stop fishing or fish harder.
Some lobstermen already are reporting making as many as three hauls a day -- early morning, midday and evening -- to make up for lower prices.
Concern over the potential for a repeat of last year's high-volume early season have arisen in part because 2012 -- which brought a record harvest -- turned traumatic for fishermen.
Also, there are signs that the same conditions are lining up already for 2013: early shedders, warmer water and the spread of shell disease northward from southern New England. That bacterial infection has decimated lobster populations, particularly in Rhode Island.
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