August 18, 2013

Maine cheese makers join cream of crop

The owners of a farm in Skowhegan place third for their whole-milk ricotta in a national competition.

By DOUG HARLOW Morning Sentinel

SKOWHEGAN - Amy and Josh Clark of Crooked Face Creamery have been making artisanal cheese for only about three years.

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Josh and Amy Clark of Crooked Face Creamery in Skowhegan are cheese makers and third-generation farmers.

Jeff Pouland/Morning Sentinel

In that short amount of time, the young couple -- both from traditional farming families -- already have won an award in a national competition in cheese-friendly Wisconsin for their handcrafted whole-milk ricotta.

They placed third among America's top cheese makers earlier this month at the 2013 American Cheese Society Conference.

"It was quite a surprise and an honor to win this recognition for our very first time in any competition," Amy Clark said. "We had entered in the hopes of receiving some useful feedback to improve our product and were delighted it was so greatly enjoyed by the panel of judges from all over the country. Now we are waiting for the evaluation to come in the mail."

The conference is host to the largest cheese competition in North America and this year received the most submissions in conference history, featuring 1,794 cheese entries, according to the society's website.

Josh Clark, 30, milks the herd of about 40 Jersey cows, with a total of 110 head of cattle, including young stock on about 200 acres. They produce 250 pounds of milk every other day. Farmers sell their milk by the pound in 100-pound batches. Most of the Clark's milk is trucked to Agri-Mark, a New England dairy cooperative, and the rest is used to make cheese.

Amy Clark makes the cheese -- a projected 6,000 pounds this year. She said she makes about 500 pounds of cheese per month. The cheese sells for $7.50 a pound for wholesale fresh cheese to $18 a pound for aged cheese sold retail.

The Clarks said they make ends meet on the farm and hope to expand soon but would not divulge their annual sales figures.

Maine has more than 70 licensed cheese makers and this year will produce close to 1 million pounds of cheese, according to Eric Rector, president of the Maine Cheese Guild, a support network for cheese makers.

"When I became licensed in 2006, there were only 17 cheese makers," Rector said.

To enter this year's Cheese Society competition in Wisconsin, the Clarks were granted a scholarship to be a member of the Maine Cheese Guild. Members get a discount on competition entries.

"Whenever Maine farmers and products can be showcased at the national level, it highlights the amazing quality of food we have here in the state," Amy Clark said. "We've been really pushing cheese this year, trying to develop our wholesale market."

According to a University of Vermont study, Maine is the fastest growing artisanal cheese-producing state, Rector said.

Maine is second only to New York State in the number of artisanal producers, where there are about 100 cheese makers, and larger than Vermont with 65 artisanal producers and Wisconsin with around 35 producers, according to the study.

Varieties of regional cheese in Maine range from traditional cheddar and jacks to British styles, such as Cheshire; soft, fuzzy "bloomy rinds" including Camembert; and Italian types, such as provolone, ricotta and mozzarella; blue cheese; and baby Swiss, Rector said.

The Clarks live and work at the dairy farm on Middle Road in Skowhegan, formerly run by Josh Clark's grandparents Clayton and Joanne Clark.

They bought the farm earlier this year from Josh's grandmother. Clayton Clark died in November 2011.

Doug Harlow can be contacted at 612-2367 or at:


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