Saturday, March 8, 2014
By MARK HERTSGAARD
WASHINGTON - Eating meat is bad for the planet, right? That hamburger you're contemplating for lunch comes from a cow that, most likely, was raised within the industrial agriculture system. Which means it was fed huge amounts of corn that was grown with the help of petroleum, the carbon-based substance that has helped drive Earth's climate to the breaking point. In industrial agriculture, petroleum is not only burned to power tractors and other machinery used to plant, harvest, and process corn -- it's also a key ingredient in the fertilizer employed to maximize yields.
Eating beef is particularly environmentally damaging: Cows are less efficient than chickens or pigs at converting corn (or other feed) into body weight, so they consume more of it than other livestock do. As a result, the industrial agriculture system employs 55 calories of fossil fuel energy to produce 1 calorie of beef. Meanwhile, livestock production is responsible for much of the carbon footprint of global agriculture, which accounts for at least 25 percent of humanity's annual greenhouse gas emissions, according to the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization.
Despite its large carbon footprint, the agricultural sector is invariably overlooked in climate policy discussions. The latest example: In his 50-minute speech on climate change last week, President Obama mentioned agriculture only once, in a half-sentence reference to how farmers will have to adapt to more extreme weather.
Perhaps no one has been more influential in popularizing the environmental critique of industrial agriculture than Michael Pollan. His 2006 best-seller, "The Omnivore's Dilemma," revealed how corporate profits, misguided government policies and an emphasis on convenience have given Americans food that is cheap but alarmingly unhealthy for those who eat it, not to mention the soil, air and water used to produce it.
These days, however, Pollan is delivering a deeper yet more upbeat message. (Disclosure: Pollan and I have been friendly colleagues since we met at Harper's in the early 1990s, when he was executive editor.) Now, instead of just exposing the faults of the industrial agricultural system, Pollan is suggesting radical new ways to make agriculture work for both people and the planet.
Technology is central to Pollan's vision, but, he says, "We have to think about what technology means. Does it only mean hardware and intellectual property? If we limit it to those two definitions, we're going to leave out a lot of the most interesting technologies out there, such as methods for managing the soil and growing food that vastly increase (agricultural) productivity and sequester carbon but don't offer something you can put into a box." And why call even seemingly old-school methods "technology"? Because, he says, "technology has so much glamour in our culture, and people only want to pay for technology."
With the right kind of technology, Pollan believes that eating meat can actually be good for the planet. That's right: Raising livestock, if done properly, can reduce global warming. That's just one element of a paradigm shift that Pollan and other experts, including Dennis Garrity, the former director general of the World Agroforestry Center in Nairobi, Kenya, and Hans Herren of the Millennium Institute in Washington, D.C., are promoting. They believe that new agricultural methods wouldn't just reduce the volume of heat-trapping gases emitted by our civilization -- they would also, and more importantly, draw down the total amount of those gases that are already in the atmosphere.
"Depending on how you farm, your farm is either sequestering or releasing carbon," says Pollan. Currently, the vast majority of farms, in the United States and around the world, are releasing carbon -- mainly through fertilizer and fossil fuel applications but also by plowing before planting. "As soon as you plow, you're releasing carbon," Pollan says, because exposing soil allows the carbon stored there to escape into the atmosphere.
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