Entrepreneur Linda Bean opened her first full-service restaurant across from L.L. Bean, her family namesake, a little more than two months ago. The shrewd move nets her instant branding and a great spot for snagging tourists.
But will Mainers and out-of-staters in the know want to consume their lobster in a converted retail space with 240 seats in the heart of the busy outlets of Freeport?
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They could do worse. The company has done an excellent job with the build-out of the former Bath & Body Works at the corner of Bow and Main streets. Once you get past the street-level entrance, where potential customers tend to mingle while contemplating commitment, the space is surprisingly unboxy and uncluttered, with roomy booths and tables, a long and curvy bar upstairs, and an outdoor balcony from which to spy shoppers.
The decor fits the Freeport retail aesthetic — clean and sleek. The restaurant’s menu is mostly traditional fare with a few retro items tossed in (shrimp wiggle, anyone?).
I visited twice. The first was the Friday of Labor Day weekend; the second was a slow weeknight. Food-wise, the experiences differed a good deal, and this was somewhat due to what we ordered. Service was slow but adequate on the first night; warm and welcoming on the second.
We started with Kelpiwraps, a trademarked appetizer ($9). Thin seaweed leaves wrapped around mounds of cream cheese that had been mixed with smoked salmon. The plate was primarily a smoky/salty whipped spread, the kelp a thin and superfluous blanket, and there were no crackers for conveyance. The mix might be better off on a morning’s bagel.
Chunky corn chowder was too thick with potatoes and corn — it was heavy like a stew, and a little gummy ($4 cup). On the other hand, the texture of the lobster bisque ($5) was appropriately smooth, the broth rich with seafood flavor.
Barbecue blueberry chicken wings were moist, sweet/spicy, meaty and dark. There are plenty of them, so you’ll need napkins for this excellent starter ($7). And I’d happily repeat a salad of local greens with tender and warm tenderloin, topped with grilled portobello mushroom strips, a scattering of sauteed onions and creamy peppercorn dressing ($10). Some very good land food.
It’s hard to beat a lobster roll made from seafood just off the boat, enjoyed at a spot with a great view. What about Linda Bean’s “Perfect Maine Lobster Roll”? Undressed claw and tail meat come on a split-top roll grilled in butter and dabbed with a Miracle Whip and herb sauce. I like this sandwich, an unintimidating twist on the favorite (two sizes: $17 and $23). Order without sauce if you’re a purist.
A sizable spray of thick, homemade crinkle-cut kettle chips accompany — you may have to add salt — but half of them arrived soggy on night one. The second time around, no such problem.
Tiny flecks of kelp added a smidge of color but little flavor to a mild vinegar and mayo-dressed Kelpislaw, which arrived fresh and crunchy on visit one; a little tired on visit two. In either case, you can tell your friends you ate seaweed for dinner.
While the pink sauce topping on the Maine Lobster Traps — ravioli topped with a marscapone and Parmesan lobster cream sauce ($22) — wasn’t bad, the “pasta pockets” were chewy in the middle and too firm at the edges.
Because fried clams weren’t available the first visit, my companion asked if scallops could replace them on the fried seafood dinner ($22). The kitchen accommodated, but the platter disappointed. The seafood breading was bland and a little chalky, while the interior seafood — plenty of scallops, some haddock pieces, a shrimp or two — was overdone. The frying process needs calibration.
L.L.’s “personal recipe” for baked haddock ($16) was nothing more than haddock with pepper and salt, and it arrived dry and overcooked. Did the sportsman not have a little thyme or oregano at his disposal? White rice and a side of green beans, carrots and zucchini — not too mushy — completed the plate, but there was no interest whatsoever. Upgrade or remove, legacy be damned.
On visit two, we tried a broiled fish sandwich ($12), which got us the same haddock, this time cooked correctly and served on a bulky roll. Rather than choose from four cheeses for a melted topping, we went with just fish, and happily scarfed down the moist filet.
Our desserts diverged. The interior of a slice of wild blueberry pie was congealed rather than an oozing and juicy spread. But a huge wedge of carrot cake was dense and cakey, bearing lots of cream cheese frosting, and was very good. Both are $6.
Long story short: The food here, two months after launch, varies widely.
If fishing for bargains leaves you famished, stop in for a lobster roll or bisque, steak salad or chicken wings. Or throw in your line and take your chances that you’ll reel in something tasty that we did not have an opportunity to try.
Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer. She lives near Portland.
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