I’m sure it’s my Texas upbringing, but I never trust a chili recipe that doesn’t pack some heat. Generally, I’m not as much of a purist about the dish as I once was; moving to a plant-based diet will do that to you, especially when it comes to something as meat-heavy as a traditional chile con carne. Still, the dish needs to live up to its name: What’s chili without chiles?

I’ve made plenty of chilis in my day that start with whole dried peppers, but this version – like so many others – depends on ground and flaked versions for quickness and ease. Author Isa Chandra Moskowitz uses an appropriately heavy hand with those spices and others, giving this thick, hearty stew a backbone of strong flavors. Protein comes from beans (naturally), and she throws in pearled barley for more nutrition and texture. For depth and tang: lime juice and a little beer! The result is something you’ll want in your repertoire of cold-weather comforts. If a bowl of this doesn’t warm you up, nothing will.

BEAN AND BARLEY CHILI

Active: 15 minutes | Total: 50 minutes

8 to 10 servings

Pearl barley gives this chili a hearty texture, while spices – including a hefty dose of chili powder – add a nice kick. Serve with your choice of accompaniments, including scallions, crushed tortilla chips, avocado, chopped tomato and/or fresh cilantro.

The chili can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 green bell peppers, chopped (about 2 1/2 cups)

1 medium yellow onion, chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

3 bay leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, or more as needed

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons mild chili powder

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano (preferably Mexican)

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup light-colored Mexican beer, such as Tecate or Modelo

3 cups no-salt-added vegetable broth

3/4 cup pearled barley

One (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

One (25-ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed, or 2 1/2 cups cooked kidney beans

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon agave nectar (optional)

In a 4-quart pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Stir in the green peppers, onion, bay leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chili powder, cumin, oregano, remaining 1 teaspoon salt and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, to toast the spices, about 1 minute.

Pour in the beer and scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze. Cook for about 2 minutes, then stir in the vegetable broth and barley. Partially cover the pot, leaving the lid slightly ajar to let steam escape, and turn up the heat to bring the chili to a gentle boil. Boil until the barley is almost tender, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and beans. Increase the heat to medium-high to bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the pot again with the lid slightly ajar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the barley is tender and the chili is thick, 20 to 30 minutes. Add a little water, if necessary, to thin the chili to your liking.

Stir in the lime juice and agave, if using, then taste and season with more salt, if needed. Remove the bay leaves, if you can find them. Serve hot, with your choice of accompaniments.

Nutrition | Calories: 200; Total Fat: 4 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 520 mg; Carbohydrates: 33 g; Dietary Fiber: 9 g; Sugars: 7 g; Protein: 7 g.

(Adapted from “I Can Cook Vegan,” by Isa Chandra Moskowitz. Abrams, 2019.)