Two cyclists ride through the remains of an ancient sawmill on the Dansereau Trail in Quebec. Ron Chase photo
My Maine outdoor companions and I have enjoyed adventures with our Quebec friends for about 30 years. We’ve visited them to paddle whitewater, sea kayak, ski, hike and bike. On many occasions, they’ve joined us in Maine for similar exploits.
The pandemic resulted in a three-year border-crossing hiatus. Recently, six of us retired Mainers were invited to the wedding of two of our Quebec friends, Caroline Lauzier and Richard Bedard. Fortunately, COVID restrictions have finally relaxed, so the invitation provided the perfect opportunity to restart our friendships.
Cyclists assemble on Champlain Promenade for a chilly ride in Quebec City.
The invitation also included a unique opportunity to lodge with our Quebec friends in their home in Sillery, a historic Quebec City neighborhood. Since we planned to spend a few days there, I asked for bike trail suggestions. Their two in-city recommendations were Samuel Champlain Promenade and St. Charles Linear Park.
The wedding was scheduled for late afternoon on our first full day in Quebec. Although Caroline and Richard had a busy agenda, they weren’t going to forego participating in outdoor activities. While Caroline went out for a half-marathon training run, Richard volunteered to guide four of us on a city bike ride.
We began our ride at a Sillery trail junction on the Champlain Promenade. Separated from traffic, we rode east on the scenic trail adjacent to the St. Lawrence River while enjoying outstanding views on our left of the prominent cliffs for which the city is famous.
After negotiating through some construction, we entered the Old City passing many 17th-century structures. The distinctive Chateau Frontenac towered high atop the cliffs dominating the surrounding unique architectural landscape. The trail joined the road for a short distance before turning left and connecting with St. Charles Linear Park.
Here we had a choice to continue east towards Montmorency Falls or complete a loop along the St. Charles River. The picturesque St. Charles Linear Park Loop Trail was our selection. The character of the ride changed as we rode north on the west side of the river. While the promenade was primarily flat and open, the busy, often-shaded St. Charles Trail rolls through gentle hills in residential neighborhoods. After a few miles, we crossed a bridge over the river and finished the loop on the east side.
Rejoining Champlain Promenade, we returned to Sillery completing an exceptionally stimulating 19-mile ride. Rather than load my bike on our shuttle vehicle, I followed Richard up the steep hill to his residence. Up is an understatement. The precipitous climb quickly deteriorated from invigorating to exhausting. I stayed on my bike, but it was a challenge.
A Maine cyclist rides the Champlain Promenade along the St. Lawrence River.
The wedding reception was held at Montmorency Manor adjacent to spectacular Montmorency Falls Park. Following a fascinating walk exploring the falls on park trails, we joined other guests for an elegant dinner. The six Mainers and two additional longtime Quebec friends, Josee Paquet and Pierre Larue, were seated at the “Whitewater Table.”
The next day, Josee and Pierre joined the rest of the group for more outdoor escapades. Some went birding, others mountain biking and four of us elected to ride the Dansereau Trail. Located between St. Catherine and Pont Rouge about 30 minutes northwest of Quebec City, the hard-packed dirt Dansereau Trail follows along the Jacques Cartier River. The lower end near Pont Rouge parallels Grand Remous, a popular sector of whitewater we had paddled in the past.
Departing from St. Catherine, we rode south along the river on a relatively flat surface. A sunny Saturday, many families and groups were out for a day of recreation. After passing by several Grand Remous rapids, we stopped to scout the most difficult one, La Chaudiere. Time was spent reminiscing about previous whitewater exploits on the turbulent falls, particularly paddling around a dangerous hydraulic called B-52.
Several short, steep hills were encountered nearing the Pont Rouge Trailhead. We passed the interesting remains of an ancient sawmill in this area. The return trip to St. Catherine was equally entertaining. Our other friends reported comparatively enjoyable exploits birding and mountain biking. We retired to Sillery for a traditional corn feast. Josee and Pierre brought corn from the renowned cornfields of nearby Neuville; the perfect ending to two great days of outdoor adventures and a wonderful wedding in historic Quebec.
Read about more exciting Maine biking adventures in my book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.” Five bike trails and three unique offshore island bike rides are featured.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
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