The double smash burger at Kennebec Meat Co. in Bath. Courtesy of Kennebec Meat Co.

I’m a total sucker for a good burger. But I don’t eat them as much as I used to when I was younger, since they’re harder to work off at my age.

So when I do indulge, I try to make sure it’s worth it. The outstanding double smash burger at Kennebec Meat Co. in Bath – local beef patties draped in gooey cheese, special sauce and onions caramelized in beef tallow, all set on a rich, pillowy brioche roll – is worth every single calorie.

Kennebec Meat Co., a top-quality butcher shop, sells its dreamy burgers on Saturdays only, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. (though they often sell out by 1 p.m.). The Kennebec team knows a thing or two about meat, and so the thoughtfully constructed dish begins with a house-ground blend of top round, chuck, short rib and brisket from Caldwell Family Farm in Turner.

Jordan Raymond, Kennebec’s owner and general manager, said the ground beef blend is about 70 percent lean, which helps keep the smashed patties flavorful and juicy, while the exterior develops delectable crust. And the patties themselves are generously sized: A double burger offers up more than a half pound of beef.

The Kennebec crew tops the patties with New School American cheese, a new cheffy brand that makes minimally processed American-style cheese from aged cheddar, cream and butter. New School melts as nicely as American cheese, but has cheddar’s superior tangy taste.

Additional flavorings include a Thousand Island-style sauce modeled after the “spread” sauce on the In-N-Out burger from Southern California – where Raymond grew up – and meltingly tender onions browned in beef fat.

Kennebec partnered with nearby Sole Pane e Pasticceria to produce 80 to 100 airy and buttery brioche knot rolls each Saturday morning exclusively for the shop’s burgers (and the bakery may soon bake more rolls to meet growing demand for the burgers). “The brioche is absolutely insanely delicious,” Raymond said.

The whole burger is insanely delicious, in fact, and ample reason to visit Kennebec Meat Co. for lunch on a Saturday – just get your order in before 1 p.m. to be safe.

Single burger, $14, double burger $18; Kennebec Meat Co., 215 Water St., Bath

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