The cheddar jalapeno biscuit at Tandem Bakery on Congress Street in Portland is worth the wait. Photo by Megan Gray

This summer marks my eighth in Maine. I’ve learned to let go of favorite destinations at this time of year. We cede our ground to the tourists in August and bide our time until the temperatures drop. We avoid the lines and the congested parking lots and the traffic on Interstate 95.

The cheddar jalapeno biscuit from Tandem Bakery. Photo by Megan Gray

There is only one reason to brave such a pileup at the height of summer.

Tandem Bakery is a favorite I visit mostly during locals season, and truth be told, I have seen a line there even in frigid temperatures. Its baked goods inspire real loyalists, not just fair-weather fans. But I can’t go more than a couple months without a cheddar jalapeno biscuit, even if that means joining the throng at their door on Congress Street. I had fended off the craving for weeks but succumbed on a recent Wednesday.

I joined the line at 8:54 a.m. behind a dozen people – honestly, not bad. The timestamp on my receipt was 9:19 a.m. (In full disclosure, I did hem and haw at the counter over the addition of a couple cookies and blueberry scones. You have to seize the opportunities in front of you, you know.) My baked good of choice – sharp cheddar and fresh jalapeno baked into Tandem’s signature buttermilk biscuit – was worth every minute.

I love the savory flavors, the very subtle heat of the pepper. But I have always felt that the real zinger that makes these biscuits so good is the final sprinkle of big, fat salt flakes. Those crystals make the other flavors more pronounced and help them shine. It’s the cherry on top, if you’ll forgive me for mixing my food metaphors.

Tandem has been buzzing for years and manages the line well. The coffee shop and bakery also has introduced mobile ordering, which can help a local gal in need of a fix and short on time. I sometimes laugh at the long lines for lobster rolls and roll my eyes at the out-of-state plates. But when it comes to the cheddar jalapeno biscuit, I know well what draws the crowds. And if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em, I guess.

Cheddar jalapeno biscuit, $4.50, Tandem Coffee and Bakery, 742 Congress St., Portland. tandemcoffee.com

The light at the end of the tunnel. Photo by Megan Gray