Pork Tenderloin with Balsamic Kale and Grapes. Scott Suchman/photo; Lisa Cherkasky/food styling, for The Washington Post 

On the other end of my block sits a tall, beige townhouse with a creaky door and windows dressed in lace. Two long planters flank its narrow entryway. They are filled, year-round, with edible vegetation. Most of it changes from season to season, but the kale – curly on one side and Tuscan on the other – is a constant. Every Thursday, someone picks a few handfuls, leaving the rest to flourish until the following week’s harvest. One morning as I rounded the corner, a woman’s voice called out, “¿Quieres un poco?” (“Do you want some?”)

I took home 10 leaves of my neighbor’s Tuscan kale, wrapped them in a tea towel and placed them in the crisper. Days went by. A week. Another week. Until one day I remembered with a start: the kale!

The forest green leaves were barely wilted when I pulled them out of the fridge. I washed each one, stripped out the thick ribs, gathered the tender, crinkled remains and sliced them into thin ribbons.

Tuscan kale is also labeled lacinato or dinosaur kale in the United States. But in Italy, where it probably originated, it’s known as cavolo nero (black cabbage). It’s a fantastic fall vegetable, hearty and complex. I think it’s less bitter than curly kale, so I prefer it in both raw and cooked recipes.

I happened to have a pork tenderloin in the fridge, so I started there. If you eat meat and haven’t tried this lean, inexpensive cut, now’s the time. It cooks quickly and absorbs flavors easily, making it a go-to on busy weeknights.

With Tuscany on my mind, I pulled out a wide skillet, balsamic vinegar and garlic. First, I rubbed a mix of salt, pepper, dried oregano and fennel seeds onto the meat. I decided to sear it in garlic-infused olive oil. As it cooked, I prepped my other ingredients – and turned the pork every few minutes until it was brown all the way around.

Finally, it was time for the kale. Those thin ribbons melted down in the garlicky oil with shallots and red grapes as the pork cooked through. The alliums and fruit were half of an attempt to channel the flavor of the Roman sauce known as agrodolce. (“Agro” means sour, and “dolce” means sweet.) With the sweetness added, I poured a few tablespoons of balsamic vinegar into the pan, where it sputtered before thickening into a glaze. I tasted a few pieces of kale. The shallots, which caramelized quickly thanks to the sugar in the grapes, added just the right amount of sweetness to complement the tang of the balsamic. As I served dinner, I made a note to thank my neighbor again for the kale.

Pork Tenderloin with Balsamic Kale and Grapes

4 servings

Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 40 mins

Quick-cooking pork tenderloin browns in a skillet next to sweet and sour kale in this one-pan dinner. The Italian preparation of agrodolce typically involves the reduction of vinegar, onions, garlic, raisins and a sweetener such as honey. Here, the kale is lightly stewed with shallots, garlic, grapes and balsamic vinegar, which tends to have its own sweetness – though you could add honey or date syrup to take the edge off if needed.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 3 days.

A neighbor’s gift of kale from her garden inspired this Pork Tenderloin with Balsamic Kale and Grapes. Scott Suchman/photo; Lisa Cherkasky/food styling, for The Washington Post

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon dried oregano or Italian seasoning blend
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds (optional)
1/2 teaspoon fine salt, plus more as needed
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
1 (1 1/2-pound) pork tenderloin, silver skin trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 shallots (3 ounces total), sliced
1 (12- to 16-ounce) bunch kale, preferably Tuscan or Russian, thick ribs removed and leaves thinly sliced
15 to 20 seedless red grapes, halved
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar or apple cider vinegar (see Notes)

STEPS

In a small bowl, stir together the dried oregano, fennel seeds, if using, salt and pepper. Sprinkle it over the pork, rotating so it is coated all around, and use your hands to press the seasonings into the meat. (The moisture on the pork will help them adhere.)

In a large (12-inch) cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the garlic and fry until very light golden brown on both sides, tossing regularly, about 2 minutes total. Using a fork, transfer it to a small plate.

Gently place the pork in the skillet and cook until browned all over, about 3 minutes per side. Watch for splatters. Move the meat to one side of the pan.

If the pan is dry, add a little more oil, followed by the shallots. Add the kale a handful at a time, stirring until it wilts enough to add the rest. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale begins to wilt and the shallots soften, about 4 minutes. Add the fried garlic slices, grapes and vinegar, and gently stir to combine with the kale mixture. Taste, and season with salt and pepper as desired.

Using an instant-read thermometer, check the temperature of the pork. By now it should be 145 degrees in its thickest part. (It may still be pink in the center; this is normal. If the meat needs more time, remove the vegetables and continue to cook the meat.)

Once the pork is done, transfer it to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before cutting into thick slices.

Divide the vegetables and pork slices among individual plates, and serve hot, with any juices left in the pan drizzled over each plate.

Substitutions: Instead of pork >> use bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, with an adjustment to the cooking time. Grapes >> chopped apples or raisins, for something sweet; pitted and smashed green olives, to go savory. Kale >> shredded cabbage, Brussels sprouts, or collards – or chopped cauliflower.

Notes: If your vinegar is especially pungent, add a tablespoon of honey to balance the sauce.

Nutrition per serving: 359 calories, 27g carbohydrates, 82mg cholesterol, 12g fat, 4g fiber, 40g protein, 2g saturated fat, 741mg sodium, 17g sugar