Earlier this fall, The New York Times included The Alna Store in its 2024 roundup of America’s best restaurants, making it the only dining hot spot in Maine to make the list.

“On a rural crossroads covered in white clapboard, The Alna Store looks like the old-time country shop that it was for decades,” The Times’ fourth annual list said. “But now, the shelves in back are stocked with natural wines, imported tinned fish, and bracing housemade ferments (kimchi, hot sauce, curry kraut). And in front, an ambitious restaurant serves a thoroughly of-the-moment, local menu that’s full of sophisticated touches without being at all pretentious.”

Walking in the front door makes it clear for those who haven’t visited. Before savoring a spoonful of Italian wedding soup, the ambiance speaks for itself. Wax drips down candlesticks, mismatched vintage spoons decorate each table and vases of fresh dahlias decorate the tables. 

Although the store has been criticized for being “overpriced,” founder and owner Jasper Ludwig argues that its dedication to supporting local, regenerative agriculture has enhanced its role as a social hub. 

In addition to building relationships with local farmers, the business has partnered with organizations such as the Wiscasset, Waterville and Farmington Railway Museum to host casual cookouts. 

“I remind myself that our approach won’t resonate with everyone,” Ludwig said. “We strive to make our food accessible, though sourcing everything carefully can be more expensive. It’s not just our vegetables. Our flowers and wine are all made locally.” 

And clearly, they’re doing something right. The Alna Store opened in December 2022 and received a James Beard Award nomination for Best New Restaurant this year. Portland Press Herald food critic Andrew Ross named it his Best New Restaurant in 2023 and awarded it a rare 4.5-star review.

With success comes a flood of “foodies” and heightened scrutiny. 

“We thought the James Beard nomination was big,” said Ludwig, her eyes widening. “But there’s been an unprecedented boom since The New York Times article. Previously, we reduced staff in the slow winter season, but that option is no longer available.”

Ludwig expressed gratitude to her staff and guests, both new and old, for creating a magical atmosphere that fills the store every day. She outlined future goals and shared plans to “pour back into the community.” 

Honoring The Alna Store’s past

The Alna Store has been around for quite a while.

Originally known as Hilton’s Store, it was located at “the square,” the intersection of Route 194/Head Tide Road and Dock Road. In 1909, it was one of several stores in the Puddle Dock area of Alna.

Owners Li and Walter Hilton sold dry goods, groceries and other staple items. Part of the building housed the post office, while a separate gable-roof building in the back served as a grain store.

In the 1960s, the main building was demolished, and the grain store relocated to a new site on Route 218, becoming The Alna Store.

After that, the business changed owners several times. In 2004, Amy and Mike Preston purchased the store. Under their ownership, they organized annual Halloween trick-or-trunk events, hosted fundraisers for the Hidden Valley Nature Center and sold local goods. 

The torch was passed to Ken and Jane Solorzano in 2017, who renamed it the Alna General Store. They aimed to return it to its humble roots by stocking the shelves with pantry staples such as flour and sugar.

When Ludwig took charge, she sought to implement her vision while preserving traditions such as the annual trick-or-trunk event.

Since Alna is a rural area, the roads are unsafe for local trick-or-treating due to the lack of sidewalks. This year, on Oct. 27, the staff stayed open later than usual to offer hot cider and a craft menu inspired by Oktoberfest. They served made-to-order donuts and delicious sides, such as German potato salad, to guests, who arrived in Halloween costumes.

“We inherited a lot,” Ludwig said. “And we take responsibility for maintaining what we can.” 

This fall, The Alna Store teamed up with SeaLyon Farm and the WW&F Railway Museum to showcase local history. Guests arrived on a narrow-gauge steam engine to the farm with tracks in its back plot and then enjoyed a tractor ride to The Alna Store for a barbecue.

“Lots of farmers attended,” said Marcia Lyon, owner of SeaLyon Farm. “That was nice since most of them sell to The Alna Store but have never dined there. Everyone could relax; it brought the agricultural community together.” 

Jasper hopes to bolster community spirit by organizing more collaborative events.

As the frost sets in and floral table settings transform into candle lanterns, The Alna Store will launch a series of wreath-making workshops.

Local foraging expert Rachel Alexandrou will lead four classes on Sunday evenings. 

Participants will learn about plant identification and basic wreath-building skills, and they will be able to take home their creations. The Alna Store will offer various treats, including cake, soup, sourdough, natural wine, cocktails and espresso. Holiday gifts and specialty foods will also be available for shoppers in the market section.

Investing in Midcoast farmers

In addition to SeaLyon Farm, The Alna Store sources its products from local partners, including Brady Hatch from Morning Dew Farm in Damariscotta and Meg Chase from Chase’s Daily Farm in Freedom. 

“We chose our partners wisely,” Ludwig said. “We do not condone exploitation. Workers involved in crop harvesting and packaging often face poor working conditions. Similarly, monocropping and similar practices harm the environment. That is why we collaborate with farmers whose mission aligns with our values.” 

Chase recalled meeting Ludwig when she launched a wholesale list for local chefs. Since they joined forces, The Alna Store has become her farm’s largest customer, accounting for most of the seasonal operations’ costs.

“All our accounts are motivated by flavor,” said Chase, who delivers to The Alna Store weekly. “As a grower, I’m motivated by variety. We are in lockstep with our restaurant, Chase’s Daily, which allows us to understand what’s useful in a kitchen.” 

Chase’s Daily Farm employs regenerative practices, prioritizing soil biology as the foundation for agricultural decisions. These practices include no-till farming, cover cropping, mulching, nutrient management, soil testing and crop rotation. 

Morning Dew Farm implements similar practices to maintain their land’s continued productivity, including compost application, crop rotation and the creation of pollinator habitats.

The Alna Store has sold pansies and potted herbs from Morning Dew Farm at its market. Following a successful launch of paprika at the Common Ground Fair, additional spices will soon spruce up the dinner menu.

Hatch has known Ludwig since childhood and was thrilled when she first visited the farm to share her vision for The Alna Store.

“We view our work with farm-to-table restaurants as a partnership,” Hatch said. “We cultivate a variety of flavors to provide chefs with an assortment of crops to choose from. The Alna Store’s commitment to buying seasonal products aligns with our goals.”

Brendan McQuillen, Hatch’s business partner, agreed and emphasized that support from partners like The Alna Store is vital because it helps the farm manage fluctuations and creates a sense of security that can provide value for generations.

Lyon has been delivering to The Alna Store since it opened. She considers the working relationship mutually beneficial as she often samples fresh pastries for free or texts Ludwig whenever her son and daughter-in-law are in town and need a date night reservation. 

“Having a restaurant down the road has allowed us to explore new avenues of cultivation,” said Lyon, something the farm otherwise wouldn’t be comfortable doing. “We have been able to focus more on berries and fruits, and lately, we have been experimenting with figs.” 

Lyon feels the collaboration is strong partly because of her eye for crop excellence and Ludwig’s taste. 

“How many restaurant owners of that caliber are accessible? Not many,” Lyons said. “But Ludwig’s leadership and respect from her team has made the store all the rage.” 

‘It’s been a labor of love’

In addition to supporting local farmers, The Alna Store employs 35 people, including seven full-timers.

“It’s a fast-paced, stressful environment,” Ludwig said. “And we understand that.” 

Each chef on the team brings a unique skill set: Clara Kazarov and Tyler Dalton, the sous chefs, and Kristen LaMontagne, the lead baker and “dough whisperer.”

The market and restaurant work synergistically, allowing customers to take home products they enjoy after dining or quickly stop by after work — replicating Ludwig’s Tucson store, 5 Points Market & Restaurant, which operates similarly. 

Kazarov, known as the “Fermentation Wiz Kid,” uses her expertise in fermentation to create market goods and preserve seasonal ingredients for year-round use in the restaurant. Her pickles and preserves can be found on the shelves alongside cheese from Lakins’ Gorges Cheese in Waldoboro, fresh chard from Dandelion Spring Farm in Bowdoinham, Dear Dairy Ice Cream, gifts and specialty items such as insect repellent.

“Our selection is curated with items we’d be excited to discover ourselves,” Ludwig said. “The goal is to offer customers all the items they need for an adventure, from snacks to sunscreen.” 

Ultimately, the goal is to establish a seamless connection that allows diners to take home a bottle of wine they enjoyed with their halibut. Or locals can stop by the market to pick up fresh pasta and tomato sauce after a long day to prepare a meal at home.

Patrick Moore and Michele Michael have been regular customers since the store opened. They’ve trekked out to Alna from Dresden with no complaints, claiming the restaurant filled a gap since before, to get quality food, they had to choose between Portland or Camden.  

“I love that we can sit at the bar and interact with the workers,” Michael said. “After coming here for years, when we walk in, it’s like seeing family. Jasper and her team have a laser-beam focus — they pay attention to every detail, so even in a crowded room, you feel like you’re being catered to.” 

Moore agreed, revealing how delicious the chocolate chip cookies are, then immediately feeling foolish because, with this shout-out, they’ll likely all be gone.

“It’s been a labor of love,” Ludwig said. “No linen companies would deliver to us when we first opened, so I had to drive hours out to meet purveyors on my day off. Now, everyone wants to work with us.” 

Moving forward, the store will continue to invest in sustainable food systems to create a space for culinary creativity in the Midcoast. Ludwig also hopes to invite guest chefs like Kusama Rao from Ruchikala to host pop-up workshops.

The staff’s goal is to take more breaks to “rest, reset and get inspired.” 

To make a reservation at The Alna Store, visit the website RESY or, for a party greater than eight, call 586-5515.

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