This week, the skies have been unusually dark at night. That’s because there was a new moon. That means that, if it is clear, these evenings are especially good for stargazing. It also means that the tides are particularly large as the sun, moon and Earth align, combining their gravitational powers to impact the height of the seas.

This Wednesday’s new moon marked another important moment: the beginning of the Lunar New Year. While most people in Western cultures celebrate the start of the new year on Jan. 1, many in Eastern cultures base the start of the year on the first new moon. That means that it doesn’t always align with a set date but rather depends on the timing of the lunar cycle.

There is more to the Lunar New Year’s coastal connection than just the alignment with tides, however. It’s no surprise, given the tidal connection, that there are some fishy traditions associated with this celebration. Tides impact spawning and movement patterns of fish as well as their accessibility to be harvested. The fishy traditions are not just apparent at the dinner table celebrations during this holiday but also in the Chinese language. The Chinese words for fish and for abundance are both pronounced “yu.” “Nián nián yǒuyú” is a common way of wishing someone a happy new year and means, “May you have surpluses and bountiful harvests every year.” One of these hoped-for bountiful harvests is that of seafood.

One way of celebrating this abundance is the tradition of eating a whole fish. Having a whole fish at the table symbolizes that there is plenty and this is something to celebrate. Eating a fish from nose to tail is thought to mean bringing the year to a happy close. It is also something to hope for going forward as the scales of the fish are said to portend wealth in the new year.

The honoring of the whole fish begins with its preparation. Because it is important to keep it whole, the fish has to be carefully handled and presented. Apparently, sometimes this means that there is a “presentation” fish for the table and a “kitchen” fish being prepared for the meal. The “presentation” fish is placed with its head facing the most honored guest at the table, indicating that they are to eat first. This is a way of honoring both the guest and the fish. All too often, in Western cultures, seafood consumers don’t ever see the whole fish as it has already been filleted before it makes it into the seafood case or onto a plate. But here, the viewing of the whole fish is so important that a second fish must be procured for the meal so that the first one can be properly looked over by everyone at the table. Proper viewing is important in bringing good luck in the new year.

Another growing trend in China is to eat lobster on the Lunar New Year. Because red is a lucky color in Chinese traditions, the red color of a cooked lobster is a highlight of serving it for this holiday. China imports millions of pounds of lobster from North America to celebrate the Lunar New Year. This is particularly interesting since China is the world’s largest exporter of seafood and one of the top suppliers of seafood to the United States.

If you’re looking for another local option, you won’t find carp — one of the fish traditionally consumed in China. But there are plenty of local fish that can be served whole and make for a meal that is both elegant and delicious. Or if you’re not into eating whole fish, you can make dumplings, another traditional celebratory dish, with local seafood. These can even be made into the shape of moons. The Lunar New Year is an opportunity to combine traditions from different cultures and to recognize the significance and symbolism of a whole fish in a new way.

Susan Olcott is the director of strategic partnerships at Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association.

Join the Conversation

Please sign into your Press Herald account to participate in conversations below. If you do not have an account, you can register or subscribe. Questions? Please see our FAQs.