
Two skiers glide along the Riverside Trail in Grindstone. Ron Chase photos
When conditions are right, the Penobscot River Trails in Grindstone offer some of the best Nordic skiing in Maine. As was true throughout most of Maine, snow was scarce in northern Penobscot County during the first several weeks of winter. A major mid-February snowstorm dumped 16 inches of powder on the trail network significantly increasing the snow depth.
Established by the Butler Family Conservation Fund, the PRT consists of 25 kilometers of cross-country ski and snowshoe trails along the East Branch of the Penobscot River. When there is sufficient snow, a state-of-the-art Pisten Bully Snow Groomer with tiller is used to groom the trails.
After the storm, a check of the PRT Facebook page indicated their groomers were out rolling trails and laying track. Assuming expertly groomed trails coupled with the heavy snowfall would provide an outstanding ski experience; I packed my bags for an overnight trip.

A Nordic skier descends one of many hills on the Penobscot River Trails.
Located on Route 11 about 12 miles north of Medway, a short dirt road on the left leads to the PRT Visitor Center. The large parking area was about half full when I arrived early afternoon on a cold, breezy, partly sunny, mid-February day.
I gathered my skis, poles and pack, and walked a short distance to the Visitor Center. Skiing is free but all users must register. The large facility includes a warming room, wood burning stove and heated restrooms. Equipment rentals are available for a donation.
I began skiing the well-groomed Silver Maple Trail right outside of the Visitor Center door. The tracks were fast and conditions superb.
The Silver Maple Trail travels through a mixed hardwood and conifer forest until joining Tote Road Trail. From there, I followed the two often-combined trails north along the East Branch. The Silver Maple Trail separates from Tote Road and veers closer to the river in several locations.
After about 2 miles, Tote Road connects with Riverside Trail at a major junction. I turned left onto hilly Riverside Trail which immediately drops abruptly and crosses the first of many sturdy bridges on the trail. Soon after, the path curves up a steep pitch. This section is indicative of the entire trail which is an absolute delight to ski.
The serpentine Riverside Trail continues along the river for about 7 miles to Long Meadows Warming Hut. Straight-forward Tote Road and the more complex Riverside Trail parallel one another and are divided into five sectors separated by connecting trails called Links. My goal was to ski to the hut and complete a loop by returning on Tote Road.
I glided along the scenic rolling path climbing and descending hills while enjoying frequent views of the snow-covered river on my left. I paused to talk with two skiers at Link 1. They had skied up Tote Road to Link 2, stopped at nearby Pines and Ridges Warming Hut and were returning to the Visitor Center.

A skier returns on Tote Road Trail.
Progressing north, I passed another skier at Link 2 who had decided to turn back. A sign indicated Pines and Ridges Warming Hut was a short distance away. The signage on the trail system is exceptional. At each link or junction, prominent signs provide valuable information on distances back to the Visitor Center and other important landmarks.
Still intent on continuing to Long Meadows Hut, I persisted to Link 3 where I stopped to assess my progress. Based on the remaining distance to the hut, it was clear I would have to endure an unappealing return in the dark. I decided to forego my unrealistic objective and start back.
Returning to Link 2, I turned left to visit Pines and Ridges Hut. The impressive structure is located on a bluff between Riverside and Tote Road Trails. From a vantage point facing west, I was able to view the top of spectacular Mount Katahdin in the distance.
I met a skier relaxing at the hut. After a short break, we cruised back to the Visitor Center. At the parking area, we decided to ski the Hammond Ridge Trails at New England Outdoor Center near Baxter State Park the following day. For me, a new Nordic ski adventure was in the offing.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” details three of the best Nordic ski outings in Maine and narrates several epic expeditions skiing into Baxter State Park.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
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