Irish soda bread was invented, the historical cookbooks say, because the quality of yeast used in Ireland was poor for a long time. At times, good yeast would have been difficult to store in such a wet, cold climate. The baking soda in soda bread performed better. This bread has a little extra guarantee or slight cheat in having a little baking powder to help it rise; using just baking soda is more difficult because you have to combine baking soda with ingredients that have the right acid pH or the baking soda doesn’t activate completely. Remember volcanoes of baking soda and vinegar? In our cold, wet, long winter this year some people had trouble with their soda bread not rising well around St. Patty’s Day. So, try this one. 

Traditionally, in the United States, Irish soda bread has fewer raisins than this one (about 1⁄2 cup) and no pecans. But amongst families in Ireland, bakers added more raisins, nuts as they had them and even spices according to family preference. Our family liked this loaf; feel free to add those things your family likes. Other dried fruits can be used, like 1 cup of chopped dried apricots or figs, dried sweetened cranberries or blueberries, for a nice Maine touch, and so forth; you could even combine different dried fruits.

Different nuts can be used, like a handful of walnuts, hazelnuts or hickory nuts. Spices like a little bit (1/3 to 1⁄2 teaspoon or more) of cardomom are usually lovely in baking while you may prefer a surprising spice like a little bit (1/4 teaspoon or a little more) of ground cloves, a common seasoning during winter holiday times, or 5 strands of saffron, which adds a golden color and delicate taste or even a citrus seasoning like lemon or orange, which could be either juice (1/2 cup or more of fresh, not concentrate) or grated zest (1 teaspoon or more) although probably organic lemon or orange zest would be the most authentic as citrus was rare and treasured and the fresh juice would usually be used in drinks.

This is quite a good recipe to introduce children and new adult bakers to cooking, as the dough is stirred and then kneaded only a very few times and there is no waiting for yeast to rise. Yet, it is delicious bread to have, most like its taste and it goes well with most meals and is delicious served with butter straight from the oven.

Enjoy.

The Irish Paula’s

easy Irish Soda Bread

Great for tea, lunch or breakfast.

31⁄2 cups flour

11⁄4 tablespoons brown sugar

1⁄3 teaspoon salt

1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda

1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder

21⁄4 tablespoons cold butter

1 cup raisins

handful pecans, hand broken in half

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1 cup water

1 egg

Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut cold butter into tiny cubes. Pour the vinegar into the milk and let it sit at room temperature. If the raisins are not plump, sprinkle them with warm water.

Toss the butter cubes in the flour mixture. Rub about half of the butter into the flour until half of the mixture is like cornmeal but a little lumper. Leave the rest of the tiny cubes whole.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Make a well in the middle of the butter-flour mixture. Pour in the soured milk and the cup of water. Start stirring and when the fluids and flour are half combined, add the raisins and stir. Gently knead the dough until it forms a ball and all the ingredients are equally distributed. Roll the dough into a tight ball and make sure the edges are tucked neatly under. The dough will be a little sticky but this is good as it makes a moister loaf. Sprinkle the top of ball of dough with a little flour if you want a thicker crust.

Butter a cookie sheet or glass pan with sides and then flour it and place the loaf on it. Cut a big “x” in the top of the dough. Beat the egg and brush the egg on the top of the loaf. Save the beaten egg and brush the loaf twice more, but don’t brush it for the last 15 minutes of baking (so the egg wash will fully cook.)

Bake at 425 degrees F for 30 to 40 minutes or until the top is browned and crusty and the bottom of the loaf sounds hollow. You may cut into the bottom of the x to see if the bread texture is ready; if it’s mushy, put the loaf back in the hot oven for 5 or 10 minutes more with foil over the top if needed to make sure the top does not overbrown.

Slices easily, even with a dinner knife, so diners may cut their own pieces, delicious warm with butter but also good cold.

— Mel Baker is an experienced chef, caterer and cafe manager. She resides in York County and has published “The Noisy Oven” since 2006. Email her a [email protected].