Bo Byrne, executive chef at Tiqa, prepares Sumac Roasted Chicken, a Mediterranean dish. Before Tiqa hired him in October, Byrne says, he’d never even made hummus “the right way.”

Bo Byrne, exectuive chef at Tiqa, puts out Sumac Roasted Chicken, a Mediterranean dish with preserved lemon risotto, roasted onions, local greens and lemon jus, at the restaurant. Byrne is one of several Portland chefs who made mid-career choices to stretch theirc ooking chops.

Bo Byrne, exectuive chef at Tiqua, prepares a dish at the restaurant. In the four months or so that he has been in the job, Byrne has learned how to substitute ingredients, when necessary, and create the Mediterranean-inspired dishes that do well with American diners.

Bo Byrne, exectuive chef at Tiqua, seasons a fillet of salmon for Salmon Au Puy, a French dish.

Matthew Ginn, the chef at Evo, makes final preparations before sending dishes to be served at the restaurant.

Matthew Ginn, the chef at Evo, works with his team at the restaurant. Ginn spent 10 years focusing on French fine dining and tasting menus in Portland and Boston before switching to eastern Mediterranean food and small plates.

Chef Matthew Ginn adds a final touch to a small plate at Evo. Ginn focused on French cuisine before he switched to eastern Mediterranean cooking.