Not only do dried chilies give a uniquely piquant flavor to any recipe, it is when you briefly toast them that their flavor comes out. If you cook them too long, they become bitter and is quite noticeable, so keep a close eye on them. Try this fragrant hot tomato-chili sauce tossed with any pasta for a true taste of the South of the Border.

11⁄2 cups dried (3 cups cooked) orzo, kept warm

2 dried chili peppers of your choice

1/2 cup hot vegetable broth

1/2 teaspoon each minced garlic in oil and salt

1/2 (15-ounce)can diced tomatoes in juice

1/2 (15-ounce)can tomato sauce

1 (6-ounce)can tomato paste

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 (6.5-ounce)cans chopped clams, drained well

If using dried orzo, cook according to package directions. Meanwhile, place a skillet over medium high heat. When skillet is hot, add the whole, dried chilies and toast for 15 seconds per side. Try to do this on 4 sides of the chilies, as if they were square. Immediately remove from heat to cool enough to handle.

Split each in half lengthwise, removing the stem, seeds and pith (the white membrane) and discarding. If you want more heat, retain the seeds. Roughly chop toasted chilies and place in a bowl with hot vegetable broth, garlic and salt. Let rehydrate for 30 minutes. Place liquid and chilies in the bowl of a food processor or blender and pulse, on high, until size desired.

Transfer to a large saucepan with diced tomatoes and juice, tomato sauce, tomato paste and oregano. Blend well and bring to scalding over medium heat. When hot, remove, add cooked orzo and 1 can chopped clams; stir well. Divide among three serving plates, topped with additional hot chopped clams and serve immediately.

— Chef Jim Bailey is The Yankee Chef and an authority on New England food and its history. He is a respected food columnist from Maine and is married with four children. You can email questions or comments to [email protected] and visit theyankeechef.blogspot.com.