A clafoutis is a traditional French dessert, a baked pancake composed of a rich, flan-like custard atop glorious black cherries.
 
But like any good traditional recipe, a clafoutis is up for interpretation. Myself, I’ve made Ina Garten’s pear clafoutis to rave reviews, but the dish can also be made sweet with apples, peaches, berries or any number of fruits (in which case it is called a flaugnarde, but let’s not get carried away).
 
I’m not big on sweets, however, so when I set out to test my own version of a clafoutis, I decided to take the savory route. That said, I’m not sure if there’s a different name for a conception such as mine, but I do know that it’s damn good.
 
Rather than filling my clafoutis with something of bulk, like vegetables or meat, my recipe calls for an assortment of fresh herbs to lend a complex flavor and make for a light, yet filling, treat. Rather than use melted butter, as most traditional recipes call for, I use super fruity olive oil to lend additional notes of flavor.
 
What’s also not traditional in mine — among myriad other things — is the inclusion of a little whole wheat flour into the mix. I like its nutty flavor, especially as it plays off the fruitiness of the olive oil and the savoriness of the herbs.
 
The end result is something a little quiche-like, reminiscent of a popover, a cross between a dutch baby and Yorkshire pudding. It makes a fantastic brunch course, a light lunch paired with a salad or a great accompaniment to a refreshing summer dinner.
 
— Staff Writer Alan Bennett can be contacted at 282-1535, ext. 329 or [email protected].
 
Savory clafoutis with spring herbs
Time: 1 hour
Serves: 4
 
Butter, for the pan
¼ cup minced chives, more for garnish
2 tablespoons minced rosemary
2 tablespoons coarsely-chopped basil
3 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
2 tablespoons brandy or dry white wine
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons whole wheat flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
Pinch nutmeg
Pinch red chile flakes
Flaky sea salt, for serving (optional)
 
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line the outside edge of a 9-inch springform pan with aluminum foil and butter the inside, taking care to get into the bottom edges. Alternatively, you can use a well-buttered 9-inch pie or gratin dish (just skip the foil).
 
In a small bowl, combine the chives, rosemary and basil. In a separate small bowl, combine the flours. Set both aside.
 
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until foamy. Add the milk, olive oil, brandy or wine, salt and pepper, nutmeg, chile flakes and half the herbs and whisk to combine. Add the flours and whisk in gently, without overbeating, until no large lumps remain. A couple small lumps are okay.
 
Pour the batter into the prepared pan (it will be quite runny) and top with remaining herbs. Bake 35-40 minutes until the center is set and the clafoutis is puffed and golden. Like a soufflé, it will begin to fall once removed from the oven.
 
Let cool and serve warm, room temperature or even cold, drizzled with a little more olive oil, topped with chives and a sprinkling of flaky sea salt.