
For many years, I’ve organized a Penobscot Paddle and Chowder Society (PPCS) sea kayak trip to visit the puffins on distant Eastern Egg Rock in outer Muscongus Bay in June. This year, logistical issues resulted in a decision to cancel the trip.
Practicing the idiom, “every cloud has a silver lining,” I decided to use the same timeframe as an opportunity to explore the islands of eastern Muscongus Bay. When I announced the alternative agenda, three fellow Chowderheads agreed to join me.
Weather is the primary concern whenever I plan a sea kayak trip. Fog had been prevalent along the Maine coast for much of June. After studying Maine Coastal Waters Forecasts for the area, I identified a sunny late-June day with hot temperatures, light winds and gentle seas predicted. Particularly welcome news, no fog was expected.

Boat landings in Friendship and Port Clyde offer relatively convenient access to the islands of eastern Muscongus Bay. I selected Friendship because parking had been problematic during my last departure from Port Clyde.
Four of us met at the small landing at the end of Barrington Point Road in Friendship on a sunny, steamy morning. Almost high tide, the nearby waters were calm and the scenic harbor seemed to be calling us. After agreeing on an itinerary, we launched in four solo sea kayaks.
Since the tide was high, our first goal was to traverse through Pleasant Point Gut, a narrow channel that separates South Cushing from elongated Gay Island that cannot be navigated when the tide is low. We paddled southeasterly off Crotch Island and into the gut. Traveling in the twisting passageway that angles northeasterly through a small busy harbor was an entertaining endeavor.
Turning southeasterly from the northern tip of Gay Island, our next objective was Teel Island. Partly owned by a club member whose father had once owned the entire island, I wanted to see the reportedly unique homes that grace the shore.
We paddled south past Caldwell Island and entered a rocky narrows separating it from Little Caldwell Island. Rounding some ledges, we met three kayakers heading in our direction. The encounter was a fortuitous one as Tamara Cody, owner of Port Clyde Kayaks, was guiding two clients on a tour. She recommended a nearby sandy beach for a lunch break and then joined us.
Tamara was a wealth of information. She knew the history of the homes and inhabitants of Teel Island and informed us that Port Clyde had recently constructed a new much-improved parking area next to the boat landing; invaluable information for a future trip. For those desiring sea kayak instruction or guided tours, she is likely a good source.
After lunch, we progressed south along the eastern shore of Teel Island. The unusual homes were particularly fascinating given our recently acquired knowledge.
Gentle seas and almost cloudless skies continued as we entered a picturesque archipelago called Georges Islands. After passing between several small islets, we approached substantial McGee Island. We found a concealed passage that separates McGee from Barter Island. Impassable at low tide, there was still adequate water to maneuver through the engaging channel.

Exiting west into mirror calm seas, we elected to follow the same island chain north to Goose Rock. At the prominent rock, we completed an open water crossing to the southern end of Gay Island.
One more goal remained on our agenda. Two of us wanted to locate a renowned kayak destination on Gay Island called Maine Island Lodge. We persisted north along the western shore of the island in search of our objective. Once found, we agreed that a multiday stay at the impressive facility would provide an opportunity for numerous day trips while enjoying plush overnight accommodations.
Leaving the resort behind, we kayaked north past Morse Island in search of the landing on Barrington Point. After rounding the northeast corner of Morse Island, the narrow ramp could be seen west of Crotch Island.
The outgoing tide required maneuvering around exposed sand bars and ledges to reach the landing. The weather and sea conditions could not have been better for our approximately 12-mile voyage in magnificent Muscongus Bay.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” relates eight more exciting sea kayak trips along the Maine coast.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at [email protected]
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