– By ELIZABETH MARGOLIS-PINEO
Special to the Maine Sunday Telegram
Transitions sometimes lead to new traditions. My daughter Jessica and I decided that a mother-daughter weekend was in order — in fact, long overdue. For this intrepid intergenerational team, only the best would do. Of course, we chose the Black Point Inn.
Of the guest houses that once adorned Prouts Neck, only the Southgate House — now known as Black Point Inn — remains. Surrounded by ocean and spectacular views, this gracious and historic inn overlooks the lovely horseshoe of secluded Ferry Beach.
At day’s end, guests are treated to breathtaking views of the setting sun with a ghostly Mount Washington in the distance. Mornings on the “sunset porch” are lovely, too. Jess and I enjoyed a maple-syrup fueled championship game of Bananagrams in comfy wicker chairs.
Across Generations
Jess likes to exercise before breakfast. I like to drink coffee and admire the view. After exquisite eggs Benedict with crabmeat — Jess has an egg-white omelet — we head for the Cliff Walk, a mile walk around the Neck.
The rugged path climbs along ocean cliffs and rocky coast lined with wild roses, grasses and evergreens. We pause often to admire the glorious views, thundering waves, wheeling gulls and endless blue horizon. The Cliff Walk is rough in spots, so wear sensible shoes — even Jess eschewed flip-flops for sneakers.
Sidebar: The Cliff Walk passes the Winslow Homer Studio, currently undergoing restoration, due to open to the public in September 2012. These incredible views inspired some of Winslow Homer’s most memorable works, including “The Fog Warning,” “Undertow,” and “Weatherbeaten.”
It’s an easy amble to tennis courts, a beautiful green golf course, bird sanctuary, and miles of beaches. There is a saltwater pool for those who prefer pristine laps to waves and sand.
Prouts Neck is also a mecca for walkers and joggers, and they’re everywhere, solo and in groups. Drivers should use caution as the s-l-o-w speed limit is rigorously enforced. I was pulled over and issued a stern warning while my daughter stifled giggles.
Out and about
If you feel the need to explore, Centervale Antiques on Route 1 in Scarborough is filled with lovely old silver, home furnishings and rugs, plus has a lush outdoor seating area with Adirondack chairs.
Don’t miss the Cheese Iron next door, an artisanal cheese, wine and specialty food shop where we lingered over samples of Golden Rae Allagash, Beemster, and Silvery Moon cheeses, and managed to topple a display of chocolate-covered Maine blueberries.
At Len Libby, saltwater taffy and a life-sized chocolate moose draws both tourists and locals. I confess an unhealthy addiction to their chocolate covered potato chips — sinfully good.
Cocktails
We settled into the inn’s Chart Room in late afternoon as groups and families gather, children’s voices piping above the friendly din. Our mother-daughter weekend fits the multigenerational mix.
We conducted our own mini-tasting with bartender Bennett Luja who mixed us some of the inn’s most popular cocktails — the Prout’s Neck, Maine Blueberry Martini, Chart Room Cosmopolitan, and our favorite, the Casco Bay Bloody Mary, garnished with a giant tiger shrimp. The Casco Bay was our intergenerational favorite — Jess loved the Old Bay seasoning; I loved the shrimp.
“Let’s do local,” my daughter said, “a real Maine meal.” In the friendly and casual Chart Room, we started with B.P.I.’s signature salad of greens, blueberries, and goat cheese –fresh, tasty and local. Our first plate of Damariscotta oysters was so briny and delicious we ordered a second.
The chef’s signature crab cakes were sweet and spicy, and bursting with meat. Unrepentant, we looked back on our Cliff Walk and indulged in Maine blueberry pie with whipped cream and candied ginger.
The Point dining room is more formal but equally charming. On our second evening we dined beneath the old beamed ceiling and watched waves crashing over a distant rocky crag. Dramatic ocean views make us hungry, so we ordered more Damariscotta oysters, followed by duck with wild rice and cherries. The Maine seafood scampi, a tasty trifecta of lobster, shrimp and scallops, received a double rave. We shared a strawberry rhubarb tart with whipped mascarpone cheese, sampled the house-made salted caramel ice cream, and decided that mother-daughter weekends are really all about dessert.
Welcome home
The Black Point Inn staff is warm, intuitive, and best of all, relaxed — in true Maine style. They treat guests like family, only better. Manager Beverly Palmer chirps “Welcome Home!” when guests arrive, a subtle gesture that speaks volumes about the inn’s dedication to comfort and hospitality.
An authentic Maine resort, Black Point Inn has elegance, charm and history. Sandy beaches and serenity. Miles of beautiful coastline and incredible views. Hikes and walks, plus 18 holes of golf, tennis courts and a swimming pool. Sunsets, oysters, and Tuesday night jazz. And if that isn’t enough, fine dining in both casual and Maine-formal settings.
This will always be our “Perfect Prouts Neck”– a mother-daughter retreat — to relax, reconnect and eat dessert.
Elizabeth Martolis-Pineo is a freelance writer who lives in Portland.
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