I have less than 1,000 words to tell you everything you need to know about Earth at Hidden Pond; so let me just say this about the food: It is indescribably fantastic.
Apparently, I’m not the only one who thinks so.
The “organic-inspired, alfresco restaurant” in Kennebunkport is one of only two in Maine to be featured in the new season of the Food Network’s Good Food America on Sunday, Nov. 9.
Earth opened in 2011 as Hidden Pond’s hotel restaurant. It remains one of York County’s best-kept secrets, perhaps because it’s really hard to get a reservation ”“ even for hotel guests.
Celebrity chef and Good Food America host, Danny Boone, travels from coast to coast in search of the nation’s best organic, sustainable and healthy restaurants. Boone visited Hidden Pond recently, and, by all accounts, fell in love with the casual, yet sophisticated, experience that is Earth.
The other Maine restaurant, featured in an October episode, is Fore Street in Portland. Although both venues have farm-to-fork philosophies, the unique experience of Earth makes it my first choice in the summer.
“The secret to success is that our food can be really refined or it can be really casual,” said Executive Chef Justin Walker.
Walker sources the ingredients for his menu from local, organic farmers and Hidden Pond’s own gardens.
I can only describe this combination of food straight from the earth and the rustic, yet elegant, surroundings as “upta camp meets California wine country Château.”
Set in the exclusive campground at Hidden Pond, those living outside of Kennebunkport may need a GPS to find the dirt road that winds through the woods just off the intersection of Route 9A and Goose Rocks Road.
Once there, guests can dine in screened-in gazebos and gaze out over the marsh while a chorus of frogs croak musically in the background. Or, they can take drinks and dessert out by the bonfire and sit with their feet in the sand, ensconced in Adirondack chairs or benches carved from the surrounding woods.
In my opinion, the best experience has to be cozying up to the bar and gazing up at the petrified apple tree hanging from the ceiling that serves as the restaurant’s massive chandelier. The tree came from another part of the property and fits right in with the rough wood floors, screened-in dining room and bar stools carved from logs.
Who needs a special occasion to nibble on wood-fired Maine potatoes with ancho ketchup, aioli and cheese curds ($7)? Portions are generous, and sharing plates are recommended when sampling the squid ink tagliatelle with maitake mushrooms and peas ($18), and the salad of roasted local beets, with queso fresco, nasturtium aioli and duck crackling, ($16). I love the fresh, peppery garnish of the nasturtium flowers.
Although I’m not personally a fan of this aphrodisiac, a favorite on the menu is the fried Bagaduce oysters with padron pepper relish and mint ($20). If none of those appeal, a variety of fresh-caught local fish, burgers and wood-fired pizzas always grace the menu.
Earth is propelled by the twin efforts of Chef Walker and Manager Danielle Johnson-Walker. The couple reside in the horse and goat farm in York that is Danielle’s family home for the past five generations. The Walkers are both experienced veterans of New England’s fine dining scene, but it was the proximity to home, and the opportunity to work with co-owner Ken Oringer, a James Beard-award winning chef, that attracted Danielle to Earth shortly after it opened in 2011.
Justin joined Danielle at the restaurant two years ago. Oringer, a Boston-based chef of acclaim, who trained under culinary icon David Burke, remains involved as Earth’s consulting chef and mentor to the Walkers.
The couple describes Oringer as a mirror and a coach. He’s supported Justin’s efforts to sustainably incorporate bluefin tuna, a New England specialty that can be over-fished, onto the menu.
“We go through about 30 pounds a week of bluefin as a key ingredient in our popular poke dish. If we actually served it, as in a more traditional way, we’d be using twice that. Everything on the menu is the result of our efforts toward sustainable food consumption, while also having fun with it,” said Justin.
“Once, Ken and I had a conversation about which side of the bun you should put the sauce on ”“ that’s the kind of intellectual discussion we can get into,” Justin mused.
By the way, the answer to the sauce and bun question is this: If you’re left-handed it should go on the bottom, if you’re right-handed, the sauce should go on the top.
So now that I have enticed you to enjoy Earth, I have some bad news. The restaurant closes for the winter ”“ from November through May. However, you have one chance left to enjoy a 2014 Earth experience. The Nov. 1 annual closing party ”“ tonight ”“ will feature tasting plates of the entire menu and custom cocktails.
Believe it or not, there were still reservations available earlier this week, and guests can reserve a table or choose to move throughout the space during the evening. The cost is $110 per person and includes all food, beer, wine and dancing.
“It’s my favorite event of the year,” said Danielle. “It’s still serious back in the kitchen, but everybody starts to lighten up a bit, and we get the chance to say goodbye to friends and guests until next year.”
For those who can’t make the closing party, Walker will be one of the rotating guest chefs at Flanagan’s Table, a monthly dinner series featuring a chefs from Maine, in Buxton this winter. Earth will also host a dinner at Jefferd’s Tavern at the York Historic Museum in January.
For more information or to make a reservation for the Earth closing party, call 967-6550.
Until then, I’ll be counting down the days until May, and the opening of Earth’s new expanded kitchen, featuring a pastry chef.
— Tracey Collins is an author, mother and amateur chef of the “gourmet slow-cooker.” Whenever she’s not working as a contributing writer to the Journal Tribune and juggling youth sporting activities, she and her husband sneak out for date nights at local restaurants.
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