Tofu is a soy product that is high in protein and iron, and low in calories and fat. It has become widely used in the United States over the last few decades, but originated in China about 2,000 years ago. Over time, it spread throughout Asia, and now it’s used in many parts of the world. It is often used by vegetarians, but non-vegetarians like myself are fond of it as well.

Tofu is also called bean curd, which doesn’t sound very palatable, but actually can be quite tasty if the cook knows how to prepare it ”“ the process is similar to making cheese ”“ curdled milk.

The first to know about tofu, and most important, is that it takes on the tastes of whatever it comes in contact with. That makes it incredibly versatile and useful. Tofu also comes in different varieties, usually distinguished by its firmness. The softer textures are nice for desserts, while the firmer ones have more of a meaty texture. I prefer the latter, primarily because I have not found or been able to develop a recipe for a dessert using tofu that meets my palate’s high expectations.

What follows is a simple recipe that turns tofu into a pseudo Italian ricotta cheese for use in any number of ways in Italian meals. When my paternal grandmother was still alive, the Italian one with the maiden name Carbonaro, I gave it to her instead of regular ricotta, without telling her. Although she immediately noticed the difference, she liked my adaptation, and I hope you do, too.

Tofu Ricotta

One package (about 1 pound) tofu soft, extra firm or in between

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon ground rosemary

1/2 teaspoon ground thyme

1/4 teaspoon sage

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Put all ingredients in a large bowl, and using a potato masher, mash them until the tofu is smooth and all of the ingredients are well mixed. You may also use an electric mixer if you like. The more you mash or blend, the smoother it becomes. Put the mixture in the refrigerator for at least an hour ”“ longer is better to allow the tofu to absorb the flavors.

The mixture can be used as stuffing for manicotti, or any way you would use regular dairy ricotta cheese. My favorite is mixed with hot Italian sausage, tomato sauce, vegetables and rigatoni macaroni. Feel free to experiment.

— Bruce M. Hardina is publisher of the Journal Tribune.