It isn’t the loveliest word, and it turns out that it doesn’t really have a clear meaning — or a clear story — either. What is “scrod”? It sounds like cod, but it isn’t cod or at least not exactly. It can be cod but not all cod, and all scrod isn’t cod. Scrod can also refer to haddock and also sometimes to pollock or cusk. “Scrod” is a mysterious catch-all word that has more to do with either the size of fish or the way it is prepared than what type of fish it is.
When scrod refers to size, it refers to the smallest wholesale category of whitefish. These fish weigh typically between 1.5 and 3 pounds. They are considered to be more tender and mild in flavor as compared to some of the larger sizes of the same species.
In reference to preparation, scrod is defined by a fish being split and deboned rather than fileted on each side. Once the fish is split, it can be prepared in any number of ways. The split, deboned fish can be roasted over a fire if it is going to be eaten right away. Or it can be dried and salted to be stored for a longer period of time. To tie this to last week’s column, this salting is sometimes called “corning,” much like many people corned a beef brisket, or ate one, for St. Patrick’s Day. Once it is time to eat, the fish can be baked or broiled and makes a hearty breakfast or supper.
But where did the word “scrod” come from? As you already know, if you have read this column before, I am fascinated by the etymology of living things. This goes both for scientific names, which usually come from Latin or Greek, and also for common names. These are the ones that often differ between different parts of the world and also often have stories behind them. According to some, the word “scraw” was an Old English word for the technique of splaying the fish open to dry it. It may also come, in part, from the Dutch word “schrode,” which means to shred — likely also describing the fish-splaying technique. Then, there’s the Scottish word “scrae,” which doesn’t refer to the cutting but instead to drying the fish in the sun.
Aside from these old world words, there’s a story (it may be a fishy one) that the term “scrod” came about as a creative solution to name the catch of the day on the menu without knowing exactly what type of fish was going to be available on that day. Apparently, Boston’s Parker House Restaurant, famous for its rolls, was one of the places to come up with the “scrod” solution.
Whatever combination of these origin stories is true, it is yet another example both of clever preservation techniques utilized in different parts of the world and of clever branding that highlights the versatility of the types of fish that fit this category. Whether haddock, cod, pollock or cusk, they are all good options and make for a delicious choice on any seafood menu.
Susan Olcott is the director of strategic partnerships at Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association.
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