Rachel Schifter Thebault, author of “Sweet Chic: Stylish Treats to Dress Up Any Occasion” (Ballantine Books, $28), views devil’s food cake as the “little black dress” of desserts.

Serve it as a casual treat, “dressed down” as Mini S’mores Cupcakes, or dressed up as Rich Chocolate Ganache cake.

Thebault, confectioner to celebrities such as Cameron Diaz, Paris Hilton and Zac Posen, is the owner of Tribeca Treats in Manhattan. What she does for the devil’s food she also does with scooped cookies (“The White T-Shirt”), brownies (“The Cashmere Sweater”), chocolate truffles (“The Leather Jacket”) and caramel (“The It Bag”).

It’s great fun to watch her transform the same unfussy vanilla cake (“The A-Line Skirt”) into strawberry vanilla cake, peanut butter-and-jelly cupcakes, tiramisu cupcakes and a blueberry “cheesecake” that will make you want to run and grab your cake pans.