The word is from the Dutch koolsla (kool means cabbage, sla is salad). This side dish, which has been known in this country for a couple of centuries, is really indispensible to summer cooking.

In New England, coleslaw is most often of the creamy variety, and it’s one of the ways to take the measure of a diner or clam shack: if the coleslaw is fresh and homemade (and you can always tell fresh from the gloppy drowned-in-dressing deli variety), then the establishment is off to a good start.

There are other variations on the theme, and here I’ve included recipes for two other delightful dishes with non-mayonnaisy dressings.

CREAMY COLESLAW

After years of tinkering, I have settled on this as the ideal creamy coleslaw formula. The dressing has more sugar than some, but coleslaw seems to need sweetness to balance the natural bitterness of the cabbage. Serve with almost any grilled food.

Servings: 6-8

Half a medium head green cabbage

1 carrot, peeled

3 tablespoons minced sweet onion

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

Use a food processor or a large knife to cut the cabbage into shreds. You should have about 7 cups. Shred the carrot in the food processor or on a box grater. (A micro plane shreds it too fine.) In a large bowl, toss together the cabbage, carrot and onion.

Whisk mayonnaise with the sugar, vinegar, mustard and salt. Pour dressing over the cabbage mixture and stir well to combine. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to 8 hours.

Before serving, pour off any excess liquid that has accumulated around the edges of the coleslaw and stir well.

CALICO VINEGAR SLAW

Sweet-tart vinegary slaw is the perfect foil for rich dishes such as baked beans, chowders or grilled meats, especially pork. The carrot and bell pepper add beautiful color as well as flavor.

Servings: 6-8

Half a medium head green cabbage

1 carrot, peeled

Half a red bell pepper

1 small sweet red or white onion

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon celery seed

Freshly ground black pepper

Use a food processor or a large knife to cut the cabbage into shreds. You should have about 7 cups. Shred the carrot in the food processor or on a box grater. (A micro plane shreds it too fine.) Cut the pepper and onion into very thin slices and cut slices in half crosswise. Toss all the vegetables together in a large bowl.

Whisk sugar and vinegar together in a small bowl until most of the sugar is dissolved. Whisk in the oil, salt and celery seed. Pour dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss well. Refrigerate for at least one hour or for up to six hours.

Before serving, drain off any excess liquid, re-stir the coleslaw, and season with pepper and additional salt if necessary.

GINGERY ASIAN SLAW

Red cabbage makes this ginger-spiked coleslaw look pretty and exotic, but green cabbage works just as well. This is fabulous on a grilled pork, chicken or lamb sandwich. The cilantro sprinkling is optional, but if you’re as addicted to this fragrant herb as I am, apply it with a heavy hand.

Servings: 6-8

Half a medium head red or green cabbage

1 carrot, peeled

6 snow peas, strings removed

1 small sweet onion

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar

1/2 cup vegetable oil

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Fresh cilantro leaves, optional

Use a food processor or a large knife to cut the cabbage into shreds. You should have about 7 cups. Cut the carrot and snow peas into thin julienne matchsticks. Cut onion into very thin slices and cut slices in half crosswise. Toss all the vegetables together in a large bowl.

Whisk sugar and vinegar together in a small bowl until most of the sugar is dissolved. Whisk in the oil, ginger and sesame oil and season with salt and pepper. Pour dressing over the cabbage mixture and toss well. Refrigerate for at least one hour or for up to six hours.

Before serving, drain off any excess liquid, re-stir the coleslaw, and season with pepper and additional salt if necessary. Sprinkle heavily with cilantro leaves if desired.

 

Brooke Dojny is author or co-author of more than a dozen cookbooks, most recently “Dishing Up Maine” (Storey Publishing 2006) and “The New England Clam Shack Cookbook” (Storey 2008). She lives on the Blue Hill peninsula.

 

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