Saturday, April 19, 2014
By NANCY HEISER
(Continued from page 1)
Rack of lamb joins seafood and other entrees on the Pilot House menu at the Sebasco Harbor Resort on the Phippsburg peninsula. The restaurant is open to non-resort guests.
Courtesy Sebasco Harbor Resort
PILOT HOUSE at the Sebasco Harbor Resort, 29 Kenyon Road, Sebasco Estates. 389-1161; sebasco.com
HOURS: 5:30 to 9 p.m. for dinner. Closed Sundays in summer; open daily the rest of season through October.
CREDIT CARDS: All major
PRICE RANGE: Appetizers, $7 to $12; entrees, $18 to $38
KIDS: Welcome. High chairs and a separate menu.
BAR: Full. The international wine list has about 40 bottles, including four sparkling and some distinctive choices, $26 to $105. About 15 wines by the glass. Eight beers on tap, mostly Maine microbrews.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
BOTTOM LINE: Pilot House, overlooking a picturesque harbor, is the fine dining option at the resort. The Ledges, downstairs, is a casual eatery and has outdoor seating. Both welcome non-resort guests. The scenery alone makes Pilot House a delightful spot for dining, and a draw for visitors and boaters. There are several delicious dishes on a menu that offers steak, fowl and many seafood choices. Adventurous eaters may be disappointed that preparations are fairly tame. A good spot for groups.
Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value: *Poor **Fair ***Good ****Excellent *****Extraordinary. The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.
When it comes to service, the restaurant uses a team approach. One server takes our order, assigns the silverware and checks in mid-meal and at the end. Others deliver food, fill water glasses, clear the table, offer coffee. All the staff are professional and cordial. A maitre d' in crisp business attire maintains a friendly presence.
The centerpiece items we try are cooked to just the right doneness, and are attractively presented. The options and preparations here will please a range of palates. Overall, I'd like to see a more spirited use of ingredients to add character to some of the main dishes.
A foursome from France sits two tables away from us, lingering over their meal. A young couple on the other side takes photographs. These guests remind our party of Mainers that to be dining on well-prepared seafood in calm surroundings with a killer view is indeed something special.
We conclude with a giant wedge of Bailey Irish Cream chocolate fudge cake. Most of the desserts are similarly family-friendly. The rich, retro dessert puts a metaphoric maraschino cherry on top of our classic American resort dinner.
Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer who lives near Portland. Her work has appeared in national and regional publications.