Sunday, April 20, 2014
By ANNE MAHLE
A friend called recently and asked what would be local and suitable to bring to a brunch with pancakes or french toast. Local fruit in Maine? In November? Cranberries, of course! And perfect for around Thanksgiving.
For confit, break down your turkey and cook it in fat a week ahead for the perfect make-ahead meal for entertaining.
After giving her the basics over the phone, I got the creative bug and decided to make pancakes for the girls the next morning, and test the cranberry syrup recipe while I was at it. A few days later I made a quick french toast to pair, again, with the cranberry syrup. Some leftover, stale baguette, one egg, a little milk, a sprinkle of sugar, soak the bread, butter into the pan and ta da pretty picture. And my lunch. Yum.
The interesting bit of discovery that came from making the syrup is that when it cooled, it was more like jam. When I heated it up again, it became more of a liquid. The way it set up indicated that cranberries have a lot of pectin in them, the thickening agent often used in jams and jellies.
It would probably make a great mate with other berries in a jam project, although I've never tried it because cranberries are not in season when other berries are.
All of these recipes were tested on locally raised turkey, and I encourage you to seek one out for your family celebration. It certainly solves the problem of how to defrost a big turkey over several days, and tastes so much better!
If you are interested in how to break down a whole turkey yourself or in some interesting stuffing recipes, both can be found on my blog, www.AtHomeAtSea.com.
Many happy meals to you and your family as you keep traditions, create memories and enjoy each other this Thanksgiving holiday.
This is the perfect make-ahead meal for entertaining. Make at least one week ahead for the best flavor.
If you don't care to break down your own turkey, it's easy enough to ask your butcher to provide these pieces for you. I know it's not common to have 4 cups of rendered fat hanging around most households, but again, your butcher can provide this for you. I used pork fat rendered from a whole pig broken down last winter. It was delicious.
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon fresh black pepper
5 tablespoons minced sage and rosemary
Legs, wings and thighs from a 12- to 14-pound turkey
4 cups duck fat, port fat or lard (don't think about it)
Pulverize the salt, pepper and herbs in a food processor or spice grinder with a few pulses. Rub the exterior of the turkey pieces and place on a platter with sides high enough to catch any liquid that will drain from the turkey. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours.
Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place the turkey and fat in a Dutch oven or other oven-proof pot with a lid. Bake for 3 to 3 1/2 hours until the meat is so tender it is almost (but not) falling off the bones.
To preserve for any length of time, make sure that any meat juice is separated from the fat (the meat juice is what will cause confit to spoil), and pour the warm fat over the turkey until the level is 1/2 inch above the last piece of turkey. I've found that the half-gallon ball jars work really well.
The confit will keep in the refrigerator for at least 3 months. This is a terrific way to preserve meat, although it never lasts that long at my house.
Refrigerate until you are ready to use it, and then bake on a roasting pan at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until the meat is warm. Raise the temperature of the oven, and bake until the skin is crisp. Serve immediately, and enjoy how the skin is crispy and the meat just falls off the bone.
Serves 6 to 8.
Use the carcass, neck and giblets (those squishy things that come in the bag if you are using a store-bought turkey). For a more flavorful stock, use an uncooked carcass, but you can also use the bones left over from carving a whole turkey.
Place in a large pot with 2 large carrots, 2 small leeks and 2 celery sticks, all quartered. Cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce immediately to a simmer for 1 1/2 hours (if you are using cooked bones, it won't take quite as long), skimming any foam and fat that rises to the surface.
Strain and use stock immediately for gravy or soup, or freeze for later.
Use your favorite stuffing or my recipes for cranberry and challah stuffing; cranberry, pecan and sage stuffing; or sausage and apple stuffing on my blog at www.AtHomeAtSea.com.
3 cups of your favorite stuffing
Both breast halves from a 12- to 14-pound turkey, skin on, about 4 pounds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
Lay the turkey breast skin-side down between two large layers of plastic wrap. With a meat tenderizer, pound the breast until it is an even thickness and 1/2-inch thick. Discard the plastic. Season the breast with salt and pepper.
Arrange the breasts so that if you picture yourself as facing north, the long side runs east to west. Place the stuffing in a row in the middle of the pounded turkey breast lengthwise. Roll one side of the turkey up and over the stuffing, tucking everything in as neatly and tightly as you can. Roll the other side to make a log with the stuffing in the center. Use toothpicks to hold the final edge in place while you tie it with butcher's string every 1 to 2 inches.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Heat a large, oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat and add canola oil. Carefully place the roll into the pan. Brown for 10 minutes on all sides, turning as needed. Transfer skillet to oven and cook for 45 minutes or until an internal thermometer reads 155 in the center of the roll. Let rest 5 minutes, and slice in 1/2-inch slices.
Serves 6 to 8.
1 1/2 cup cranberries
1 cup water (or more if you like the syrup a little looser)
1 cup sugar
Pinch of ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 vanilla bean, split
Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and cool. Store in a glass jar for up to 2 weeks.
Makes about 2 cups.
CUMBERLAND SAUCE OR CRANBERRY PORT SAUCE
2 cups cranberries
1 1/2 cup water
1 cup port
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon grated ginger
2 whole bay leaves
Zest from 1 orange
Zest from 1/2 lemon
Juice from 2 oranges, about 3/4 cup
Juice from 1/2 lemon, about 2 tablespoons
Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook until the cranberries burst, and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes and strain. Cool completely to serve as a jelly, or serve hot as a more liquid sauce.
Makes about 2 cups.
Anne Mahle of Rockland is the author of "At Home, At Sea," a recipe book about her experiences cooking aboard the family's windjammer. She can be reached at: firstname.lastname@example.org