This is not your grandfather’s Chianti.

Forget the old straw-wrapped bottles, called fiaschi, that used to define Chianti. Forget the flasks of nameless local vino you enjoyed at a trattoria in Florence and remember nostalgically every time you hear Billy Joel’s “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant.” And forget “spaghetti wine.” I’m talking about an exciting new and evolving category of wines called “Chianti Classico Gran Selezione” that’s already staking a claim to be the ultimate expression of the sangiovese grape.

Let me give you some background: The production boundaries for Chianti wine – roughly from Florence south to Siema – were originally set in 1716, though the wine’s recorded history extends back to the late 14th century. Chianti became emblematic of Tuscany, and growers outside the zone made their own versions. In 1932, the original zone was designated Chianti classico to distinguish its wines from Chianti produced in surrounding areas. The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico sets standards for the wines, which are identifiable by the black rooster symbol on the bottle neck or back label.

Chianti classico wines must be aged at least 12 months after harvest before hitting the market. Chianti classico riserva must be aged at least 24 months, with at least three months of that in bottle. This is meant to distinguish riserva wines as higher quality.

The consorzio approved gran selezione as a new category of Chianti classico in 2014, to be implemented a few years later. These wines are to be estate wines from a single vineyard or from the estate’s best grapes, aged at least 30 months (three of those in bottle), and displaying “organoleptic features of excellence” – meaning they must smell really, really good. They also must be 80% from the sangiovese grape (90% beginning in 2027), with the rest from indigenous varieties. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are not allowed.

Gran Selezione wines from the 2018 and 2019 vintages are currently available in U.S. markets. I’ve tried several over the past six months, and they are fantastic, showing depth and elegance with the dried cherry, cocoa and herbal flavors familiar to fans of sangiovese and Chianti classico. They all improved on the second day, so consider prolonging the delight or decanting your bottle several hours before dinner. These are wines for hearty dishes, such as braised or roasted meats and game, or strong cheeses. Some of my favorites were Castello Fonterutoli by Mazzei, Aluigi by Le Cinciole Podere, Colonia by Felsina and Castellinuzza e Piuca from Vigna Piuca.

And, of course, the wines are not identical. They show nuances based on winemaking or the specific location where they’re grown. To that end, the consorzio in 2021 approved 11 village designations, with the bureaucratic name of Additional Geographical Units, or UGAs. These are meant to identify specific soil types and microclimates, as well as cultural and historical significance. While conceptually akin to village appellations in Burgundy, UGAs are meant to delineate Chianti classico’s highest-quality wines. For now, at least, there are no premier cru or grand cru vineyards, as in Burgundy.

In July, the consorzio gave final approval for wineries to identify their UGAs on their labels. So we will soon see Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines designated as San Casciano, Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Castellina and San Donato in Poggio.

“Now consumers will finally be able to choose wines produced in a specific UGA and fully appreciate the subtle differences inherent in the Black Rooster region,” consorzio President Giovanni Manetti said in a statement. “This represents a new step towards a greater appreciation of the unique characteristics of the chianti classico territory.”

The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione wines I’ve tried are comparable in quality to Brunello di Montalcino, the upper-crust sangiovese grown in vineyards around the town of Montalcino, a little further south in Tuscany. While not inexpensive, around $55-$65 retail, the gran selezione are priced lower than the more famous brunellos. Fans of Italy’s top wines should seek them out.

Alas, only about 6% of Chianti classico’s production qualifies as gran selezione, so there isn’t much of it to find. Look for it at higher-end wine stores and Italian restaurants. Your efforts will be rewarded.

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