I haven’t had many bad banh mis in my life, and every time I try a new take on the Vietnamese sandwich – granted it’s not from a place that also serves stuff like Caesar salad and clam chowder – it seems like it must be the best I’ve ever had (BiddoBanh’s lemongrass beef being the latest example).

But reader David Nicklas of Falmouth wrote in suggesting we feature the Choo-Chee Banh Mi from takeout spot Little Pig in Portland’s West End.

I liked this idea, not only because I’d enjoyed the sandwich myself but because its crispy fried hake filling made it different from any other banh mi I’d seen on menus in Maine.

Or at least that’s what I thought made it different. After trying the sandwich again, it became clear that the sauce is what defines it – and, as I realized afterward, where it gets its name.

“Choo chee” is a Thai coconut milk curry, and in this sandwich, the hake, its coating and the crusty bread all soak it up. The pickled vegetables at the base of the sandwich and sprigs of cilantro atop it create a crunchy layer of bright, fresh flavors around the soft, saucy, spicy interior.

Nicklas, who said he first ordered the sandwich while he was waiting for his wife to get out of a daytime medical procedure, described it in an email as “freshly made; an unexpectedly wonderful combination of taste, texture, and aroma; a revelation of what lunch can be.”

He also noted the kindness of the couple who owns Little Pig and who accommodated his need to have the order ready in a tight timeframe.

I can corroborate the friendliness of the people working there, and I’ll add another selling point: The sandwich is cut in half, making it shareable, so you can order more of the “Thai-ish” must-trys from Little Pig’s menu.

Choo-Chee Banh Mi, $17; Little Pig, 722b Congress St., Portland. littlepigportland.com

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Is there a locally made food item you think we have to try? Let us know about it by sending an email to go@pressherald.com.

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