April 14, 2013

Dine out Maine: A German-inspired gem is hiding in plain sight in Waldoboro

By NANCY HEISER

(Continued from page 1)

click image to enlarge

Morses’s Sauerkraut in Waldoboro has been around since 1918. The sit-down cafe, featuring five large booths, was added about eight years ago.

Photos courtesy of Morse’s Sauerkraut

click image to enlarge

Morses’s Sauerkraut in Waldoboro has been around since 1918. The sit-down cafe, featuring five large booths, was added about eight years ago.

Additional Photos Below

DINING REVIEW

MORSE'S SAUERKRAUT

3856 Washington Road (Route 220), Waldoboro. 832-5569; morsessauerkraut.com

***1/2

HOURS: Breakfast 8 to 10:30 a.m. Thursday to Sunday; lunch 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily; store open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily; closed Wednesday

CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard

PRICE RANGE: $3.50 (starters) to $8 (sandwiches) and $15 (most expensive entree)

VEGETARIAN: Yes, but limited

GLUTEN-FREE: Yes

KIDS: Welcome

RESERVATIONS: No

BAR: No

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

BOTTOM LINE: There's still enough chill in the air to warrant a trip to Morse's for hearty platters of German-inspired food, be it schnitzel and spaetzle, borscht or the famous Reuben with the cafe's exceptional sauerkraut. The kitchen whips up some great Old World fare. Breakfast is also a big draw. Just try to leave without buying some gourmet item from the array of goods, fresh and packaged, in the retail store.

Ratings follow this scale and take into consideration food, atmosphere, service and value:

* Poor  **Fair  ***Good ****Excellent *****Extraordinary.

The Maine Sunday Telegram visits an establishment twice if the first dining experience was unsatisfactory. The reviewer dines anonymously.

Dessert was homemade apple strudel with rum-soaked raisins, apples deglazed in ginger syrup (which did not overwhelm the apple flavor -- nice) wrapped up in phyllo, topped with ice cream and whipped cream, the whole drizzled with Maine apple cider syrup ($6). Go big or go home.

A mug of rich and creamy German hot chocolate, topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings, was another guilty pleasure ($2.50). Beverage options include ginger beer, ginger ale, seltzers, lime rickey, tea, etc. Alas, there are no cold German beers to wash down the wursts; no garbage-y soft drinks, either.

Our waitress at lunchtime on a Sunday, the only one on the floor at the time, managed to provide friendly and warm service to all around.

Be advised that the flavors at Morse's are not subtle, green vegetables are scant, and the portions are designed for Hans, not Heidi. Smokiness and ferment rule. If an item on the menu isn't homemade, you can be sure it's been carefully selected.

If you come for breakfast, don't miss the Swedish pancakes with lingonberry jam. Or the babka (chocolate-swirled yeast bread, procured from a Brooklyn kosher bakery) French toast.

Oh, mein Gott. Jog tomorrow.

Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer and editor. She can be reached at:

nancyheiser.com

 

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Additional Photos

click image to enlarge

Morses’s Sauerkraut in Waldoboro has been around since 1918. The sit-down cafe, featuring five large booths, was added about eight years ago.

  


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