September 12, 2012

Natural Foodie: How to be a vegan

Our resident plant-based staff writer offers a quick guide to dining, cooking and reading options that will help you settle into the lifestyle for the long haul.

By Avery Yale Kamila akamila@mainetoday.com
Staff Writer

Becoming vegan seems to be in the air.

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Kathleen Flanagan, left, and Jeanette Richelson have opened Roost House of Juice on Free Street in Portland, serving all organic, gluten-free and raw juices, smoothies, breakfast, snacks, light meals and wine.

Press Herald file photo by John Patriquin/Staff Photographer

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A simple and tasty veggie burger made with chickpeas, rice, chopped onions, tomato paste and seasonings.

Avery Yale Kamila photo

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FOUR BASIC VEGAN RECIPES

Beans and rice are the building blocks of vegan meals. Add salt and pepper to these recipes to suit your taste.

• Mashed chickpeas + sweet brown rice + chopped onions + tomato paste + basil + frying pan = veggie burgers.

• Lentils + long grain brown rice + sauteed onions = mujaddara.

• Pinto beans + long grain brown rice + salsa + lettuce + tomatoes + olives + whole wheat tortilla = burritos.

• Black beans + long grain brown rice + sauteed onions + sauteed green peppers + cooked with chopped tomatoes + cajun seasoning = black beans & rice.

BEST VEGAN STARTER COOKBOOKS

"Veganomicon," by Isa Chandra Moskowitz & Terry Hope Romero, 2007, Marlowe & Company, $27.50

These prolific authors have written many vegan cookbooks, but if you want just one comprehensive book this is the one for you. "Veganomicon" covers all the bases, from brunch to breads, casseroles to cookies and soups to sandwiches (or sammiches, as the authors call them). It also offers lots of basics on how to get started with vegan cooking and provides useful tips throughout. The slightly saucy writing style makes it a fun, lighthearted read.

"A Life in Balance," by Meg Wolff, 2010, Down East, $19.95

A resident of Cape Elizabeth, Wolff is a two-time cancer survivor who adopted a plant-based diet with a macrobiotic slant to help heal her body. This whole foods-centric book offers simple dishes and includes recipes from local restaurants, such as the Good Egg Cafe's much-loved tempeh hash, along with recipes from nationally known plant-based chefs, such as Tal Ronnen, Christy Morgan and Kris Carr. Since Wolff is so well-connected, the forward is written by T. Colin Campbell and the preface by Joan Benoit Samuelson.

"Totally Vegetarian," by Toni Fiore, 2008, Da Capo Press, $17.95

Written by Cumberland chef and host of the PBS cooking show by the same name. Fiore provides a comprehensive guide to vegetable-based cooking. The book is not exclusively vegan, but dairy products and eggs make only rare appearances, and when they do they are often optional. Look for Fiore in a soon-to-be released TV cooking show (produced in Maine) called "Vegan Mashup," along with "Veganomicon" author Terry Hope Romero.

"Blissful Bites," by Christy Morgan, 2011, BenBella Books, $19.95

This beautiful cookbook is filled with full-color photographs illustrating many of its 175 recipes. Morgan doesn't just provide tasty and tempting recipes, but she does so in a way that highlights whole foods and steers clear of processed junk. Each section of the book is organized seasonally, with recipes for spring, summer, fall and winter, along with dishes that work anytime of year. The book also provides useful cooking tips for those new to the kitchen.

"The Inspired Vegan," by Bryant Terry, 2012, Da Capo Press, $19

A sustainable-food and social-justice activist, Terry brings a unique culinary vision to vegan food with simple, approachable recipes that offer a down-home, soul-food flavor. In fact, his first cookbook (another solid choice) is titled "Vegan Soul Kitchen." The cookbook is organized by seasons, and as an added bonus, each recipe comes with a suggested soundtrack and social-justice reading list.

In the past month, I've had a host of people – old and young, men and women, professional chefs and novice cooks – ask for advice on how to eat a totally plant-based diet.

So it must be time to provide a basic starter kit on eating vegan in Maine.

The first thing people new to the plant-based eating world need to know is how to cook. If you're already comfortable sauteing vegetables, baking tofu, soaking beans, pureeing smoothies and cooking rice, you're on your way. If not, a lesson or two in basic cooking techniques will make your new dietary style a long-term success rather than a short-term fad.

The second thing you need to know is that it's really easy to be a junk food vegan. Cupcakes, whoopie pies, cookies, cake, truffles – you can find vegan versions of them all. Add in potato chips, processed vegan fake meats, white pasta and non-dairy "butter," and you have a recipe for bloating, mood swings and nutritional deficiences rather than good health.

Instead, the smart route is to focus on whole foods – vegetables, fruits, whole grains, nuts, seeds, beans, tempeh, tofu, fermented foods and cold-pressed vegetable oils – and build the majority of your meals around them. An occasional slice of vegan chocolate cake or a fake turkey sandwich is fine; just don't make them the mainstays of your diet.

Now that those basics are out of the way, it's time to talk food. Here are my recommendations for restaurants, recipes, cooking schools and cookbooks to get you started toward plant-based bliss.

EATING OUT IN PORTLAND

VEGAN RESTAURANTS:

Portland is home to three restaurants that serve only food made without meat or dairy.

Green Elephant Vegetarian Bistro, 608 Congress St., 347-3111, greenelephantmaine.com

Open for lunch and dinner, this popular restaurant serves Asian-inspired cuisine in an upscale atmosphere. It doesn't take reservations, so show up early, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights, or expect to wait for a table.

Little Lad's, 482 Congress St., 871-1636, littlelads.com

This casual, cheap-eats spot is open for lunch and serves sandwiches and a vegan buffet of classic American comfort food. It also carries the famous Little Lad's popcorn.

Roost House of Juice, 11 Free St., 899-4275, roosthouseofjuice.com

In addition to being vegan, Roost is all organic, gluten-free and raw. The menu offers fresh juices, smoothies, breakfast, snacks, light meals and wine.

VEGAN-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS:

Each of these eateries always has vegan menu items.

Bayside Bowl, 58 Alder St., 791-2695, baysidebowl.com

Flatbread Company, 72 Commercial St., 772-8777, flatbreadcompany.com

Grace, 15 Chestnut St., 828-4422, restaurantgrace.com

Granny's Buritos, Public Market House, 28 Monumnet Square, 749-0951

Kamasouptra, Public Market House, 28 Monument Square & Maine Mall, 364 Maine Mall Road, 415-6692, kamasouptra.com

Local Sprouts Cooperative Cafe, 649 Congress St., 899-3529, localsproutscooperative.com

Pepperclub/Good Egg Cafe, 78 Middle St., 772-0531, pepperclubrestaurant.com

Pom's Thai Taste & Noodle Bar, 571 Congress St., 772-7999, thaitastemaine.com

Silly's, 40 Washington Ave., 772-0360, sillys.com

EATING OUT BEYOND PORTLAND – TOP PICKS FROM THE MAINE VEGAN MEETUP

The Maine Vegan Meetup has more than 440 members and hosts monthly dining events at vegan-friendly restaurants around the state. On Sept. 15, the group will dine at Eden Vegetarian Cafe in Bar Harbor. Join the group by going to meetup.com/meatless-mainers. The organization also maintains a resource directory at vegme.org.

Cafe de Bangkok, 232 Water St., Hallowell, 622-2638, cafedebangkokme.com

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Additional Photos

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Asian-inspired fare at the Green Elephant Vegetarian Bistro on Congress Street in Portland.

Press Herald file photo

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Little Lad’s Bakery and Cafe on Congress Street in Portland serves sandwiches and a vegan buffet of classic American comfort food. It also is locally famous for its popcorn.

Press Herald file photo/John Ewing

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