I’ve been trying to visit 15 Exchange Grille to check out the bar for quite some time, but winter hours are limited to Friday and Saturday nights.

On a recent Saturday night, my friend and I stopped by for drinks. It was windy and cold in comparison to the mild winter we’ve been having here in Maine. We were hoping for some warmth when we ducked through the restaurant’s door along Exchange Street, but didn’t find it.

Additional Photos

Bartender Tom Brita demonstrates the art of making a Cosmopolitan at 15 Exchange Grille in Portland. Gordon Chibroski/Staff Photographer

The space itself was very cold. I’m not sure if that was because there’s not much buffer between the door and the seating area at the bar, or because they didn’t have the heat on. My friend and I were greeted and handed some menus when we sat at the bar, but despite it not being overly busy, it took the staff a while before checking if we’d like anything to drink.

Under a sign that reads, “think different,” the full bar is displayed with some choice liquor bottles placed on cubed shelves. That’s where I spotted a bottle of Crown Royal and opted for a Crown and ginger that cost $8. After a few sips, I determined that was pricey, considering there was more ginger ale in the glass than whisky.

If you’re not interested in cocktails, the bar also offers eight wines — red and white, ranging from $6 to $7 a glass — and six beers on tap.

The restaurant took over the space that was formerly Walter’s. It’s been open for a little more than a year. I’m not sure how much the interior has changed since then, since I’d never been to Walter’s, but it does have a cool vibe.

Exposed brick walls are the backdrop for an array of art, some of which is by local artists. Some of the art had prices listed on the frames and were for sale. Two flat-screen televisions are also mounted downstairs so you can keep tabs on sports, but the volume was off. Instead, soft jazz music filled the room.

Along with bar stools, there are a few pub tables for casual seating. The main dining room is upstairs, and overlooks the Old Port. Over an open kitchen, a collection of copper pots and pains hang from clunky chains.

Old wine boxes are arranged on a ledge above the kitchen area. With flames bursting up as chefs worked, the kitchen provided some entertainment.

While my friend and I opted not to eat, you can order from the full menu at the bar. Starters on Saturday night’s menu ranged from $5 to $10, and the five entrees offered ranged from $17 to $23. One member of the wait staff said the menu changes weekly.

The staff also told me they expect to add Thursday nights to their regular hours soon.

Emma Bouthillette is a freelance writer who lives in Biddeford.

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