Friday, December 6, 2013
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Here is where the great Indian spices come to a head -- cinnamon, cardamom and coriander, as if mulled with lemon and orange juices and added to apricot nectar. The fullness of body and bold, avant-cuisine presentation on the palate are mesmerizing. The clarity of each flavor, though (which Bonny Doon's Randall Grahm attributes to improved soil quality after he converted the vineyard to biodynamics), is what sets this wine apart.
Botani Moscatel Seco de Malaga 2010, $21 (Pine State). Jorge Ordonez is known for importing massive, bold, often high-alcohol and super-concentrated wines from Spain. They're often not for me. But I can't resist this wine, a collaboration of Ordonez's family and that of the legendary Austrian Alois Kracher. It comes from old vines in the Malaga mountains' slate-rich soil, from the Malaga-specific variety of Muscat.
With a touch of residual sugar though it doesn't come off sweet, it's flat-out sexy wine. Not elegant sexy. Lusty, slippery, gettin'-down sexy. Kind of a two-night stand, where you wake up in the morning and still want to hang out together. Teeming with flavors of tropics and ripe flowers, orange, blood orange and toast, the Botani is for ardent, eager drinking.
Joe Appel works at Rosemont Market. His blog, soulofwine.com, continues the conversation, and he can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org