I visited Plush, a new tapas bar and lounge in Portland’s West End neighborhood, in mid-December to see what kind of dinner a group might cobble together from small plates amid the chic bar scene. A satisfying one, as it turned out.

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Plush, 106 High St., Portland

Brandi Bishop with a sampling of the tapas and small plates available at Plush, which has taken up residence in the space on High Street formerly occupied by Katahdin restaurant. Photos by Gordon Chibroski/Staff Photographer

Two clusters of lounge seating occupy one side of the entrance of this space that once housed the restaurant Katahdin. A 20-stool bar aligns the opposite wall. The brick walls and visible tubes in the high ceiling are painted red, with some white accent sections. Unframed abstract art hangs on the walls.

A hostess greeted our group and ushered us to the dining area in the back half of the restaurant, which felt spare and warehouse-like, less elegant than the front section. The noise level was low, and the furnishings were comfortable. Plush is a far cry from a dive bar, or even a basic bar, but it does not feel uniformly swanky and posh, as its name implies.

Nevertheless, we had no trouble lingering, relaxing and enjoying several dishes there. These included two excellent starters: Mixed olives marinating in an onion and garlic brine ($4) that we speared with wood skewers, and nickel-sized balls of goat cheese rolled in herbs and served with grilled baguette slices ($5).

We leisurely sipped a pleasantly tart and lemony green tea ‘tini (in which we could not detect any tea flavor) and a carefree Permosa (pomegranate mimosa) while deciding what heftier plates to order. (I should note that we primarily came for the food. Those who want to see a list of Plush’s 20 specialty cocktails to assess how the bar menu stacks up to their interests might want to go to its website. All specialty cocktails are $9. And items continue to be added to the bar list.)

Plush’s three-page wine list offered a broad range of bottles. My table mate chose a familiar 2009 Albarino ($31), a versatile white that paired well with the diverse dishes to come.

We ordered three different soups. The tomato was peppery and pulpy, and quite good. French onion was thankfully not too salty like many renditions, and a nice touch of sherry was apparent. The onions were ample and soft, but not mushy. A creamy and mild roasted cauliflower soup lacked a concentrated flavor of the central vegetable (each bowl $6).

Maine mussels mingled in a bowl with chorizo, onion and garlic for a snappy and welcome twist on a familiar favorite ($10). A light and crispy tempura batter surprised and did not particularly excite us as an unorthodox coating for calamari ($9).

Tuna confit served mounded in the well of half an avocado, skin on, was a little more interesting than tuna salad ($8). But those Angus beef sliders topped with bacon, cheddar, onion jam and smoked paprika aioli slid down mighty easily. These are three bites each, two per plate, for $9. A big platter of delicious polenta fries ($6), crispy and coated with herbs and parmesan, nicely filled in the cracks.

Except for one soup that was slow in arriving, all this food was well-timed to our stated desire to linger and converse.

A chocolate satin pie ($5) was indeed satiny in texture, but missed that deep, dark richness some (yours truly) prefer. This was a more lightly flavored cream pie, diner-style, complete with a chocolate cookie crust and whipped cream topping.

Service-wise, our waitress missed a few of the finer points, but in general, her heart was in the right place. She didn’t hover, but she demonstrated with timely appearances and communication that she wanted us to enjoy ourselves.

When she didn’t know what the bar had for single malt scotches, she asked the bartender to come to our table and list the choices. The same thing occurred when we asked about after-dinner aperitifs — no list available, no server knowledge. The problem seems easily solved with a printed bar menu until everyone has the roster memorized or the menu on the iPad (right now, there is one device) becomes more reliable.

Nevertheless, our server deserves high marks for getting help from someone else, and later for explaining why one item would be late coming out of the kitchen. Such cheerful communication is basic to good service, and much appreciated.

A few such details kept Plush from living up to the sophistication it touts on its website. But it’s early yet. As I write this, the spot has been open for only six weeks. Who knows what 2012 will bring?

And if you’re looking for a lively neighborhood spot to nosh, mingle and sip on New Year’s Eve, this may be your kind of place. The bar/lounge is roomy and comfortable, and apart from the concentrated crush of the Old Port. The event has a masquerade theme.

There will be a $10 cover at the door, passed appetizers all night, a cash bar, a DJ with dancing, and a champagne toast at midnight. Cheers.

Nancy Heiser is a freelance writer. She can be reached at:

nancyheiser.com

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