Living here in Maine, we have the luxury of waiting until the tourists have left one of the country’s most-visited national parks. Right here in our own front yard we can hike, bike, kayak and explore in relative quiet the natural beauty awaiting us each fall in Acadia.

I hasten to add, however, that in recent years — thanks to effective promotion and a heightened recognition on the part of the touring public that September in Maine can often represent the best of what life should be — there’s a noticeable increase in “shoulder season” travel.

By way of example, at Camden Hills State Park the traffic during the first two weeks in September virtually equaled that of any week in July and August with a majority of the visitors headed next to Acadia.

That’s not to say we don’t frequently visit the Schoodic Section even in midsummer, as it’s enough off the beaten path (and Route 1) to invite us even in mid-July when the Mt. Desert trails can get a little crowded.

And I’ve never felt that the “quiet side” of the island is overrun, even during the height of the tourist season.

But come fall, that’s when we always plan a day on my favorite lake in the park, and a hike that includes three great mountains and a nubble in a single hike of about six and a half miles.

My day of choice in Acadia begins with a paddle in the kayak of about a mile down the west shore of Eagle Lake where I pull out in a tiny cove where the carriage road and the trail up Conners Nubble intersect.

There begins a hike of 6.4 miles that includes the Nubble, North and South Bubbles, and 1,248-foot Pemetic Mountain. Added to that is a mile hike along the Pemetic North Ridge Trail, a short stroll on a carriage road to the east shore of Eagle Lake, and then a final couple of miles right around the south end of the lake and back to my waiting kayak — which I’ll then launch for a leisurely circumnavigation of the lake as I head back to my car.

But most of you, I suspect, would prefer to access the trail from your car, bike or the free Island Explorer Shuttle (June-October). In that case your hike will begin near the east shore of Eagle Lake, making my customary final leg around the south end your initial stage. One benefit is that your hike will begin with a couple of miles of relatively flat and very scenic terrain before the ascent of Conners Nubble. I’ve found over the years, and as I get older, hikes that begin with early steep ascents (anybody who has climbed Old Speck or Elephant in Oxford County knows what I’m talking about) are less pleasant than ones that allow you to ease into the journey.

If you’re driving or biking — from the National Park’s Hulls Cove Visitors Center north of Bar Harbor, pick up the Park Loop Road and drive south for about three miles. Stay right on the road and head for another two miles toward Jordan Pond, and stop at the Bubble Pond parking area on your left.

You’ll leave the parking lot, cross the park road, and follow the carriage road north for less than a half-mile.

At an intersection bear left and you’ll shortly be on the Eagle Lake Trail. And you’re off. Your first summit will be 588-foot Conners Nubble, one of the park’s least-visited, even though the view of Eagle Lake from the summit is breathtaking.

You’ll descend rapidly to the west from there, cross the carriage road again, and then climb for about a mile up the North Bubble ridge line. The sparse vegetation and open granite slopes to the edge of a cliff offer great views and photo ops of Cadillac and Pemetic Mountains.

Then its a short hike to the 872-foot summit of North Nubble, with great views of Jordan Pond. Heading south from the summit you’ll descend to a junction with the Bubble Rock Trail, and taking the 0.3-mile side trip to the right is well worth it.

Next it’s on to the invigorating climb to the 1,248-foot summit of Pemetic Mountain … and finally back on the Pemetic North Ridge trail to your car.

All in all, a perfect fall outing in one of Maine’s (and the country’s) true wonderlands.

John Christie is an author and year-round Maine explorer. He and his son, Josh, write about the places to enjoy the beauty of Maine. He can be contacted at:

jchristie@fairpoint.net

 

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