I somehow missed Mardi Gras this year. Perhaps I was distracted by the fact that it was the day before Valentine’s Day — a funny, near-alignment of a day that marks the last hoorah before the start of Lent with one that celebrates love and affection. In the past, in celebration of Mardi Gras, I have made a seafood gumbo or jambalaya that I’ve adapted to include Maine seafood rather than the more southerly crayfish. This has been a fun way to adapt a tradition from another part of the country to what we have locally. Mardi Gras marks the start of Lent, which runs for six weeks until Holy Saturday, the day before Easter — this year, that will be March 30. Many people give up certain things during Lent in an effort to sacrifice in honor of the religious significance of this period. Mardi Gras is the Tuesday before Lent, also known as Fat Tuesday, when people indulge in the things that they might be about to give up. Oddly enough, many of the signature Mardi Gras foods include seafood — a food that isn’t among those that people typically abstain from eating during Lent. In fact, because many people give up meat during Lent, some of the common Lenten meals include seafood.

The practice of not eating meat during Lent is an example of one of the three pillars of the season — prayer, fasting and charitable giving,  each of which is thought to help bring someone who practices these closer to their beliefs. While this isn’t fasting, it is depriving oneself of something usually enjoyed. Giving up “flesh” does not include fish as they are cold-blooded. Many people practice this tradition on Fridays as a way to honor Jesus, who died on Good Friday, although others give up meat for the entire Lenten season or do not eat meat on Fridays throughout the entire year. Because Fridays are the most commonly observed day of the week for this, many communities have Friday fish dinners during the Lenten period. These fish dinners can be meals that are shared communally or taken home to share with friends and family. One of the most common fish used in these meals in New England is haddock, which can be prepared in a number of ways from chowder to Friday fish fries.

There are many groups in the community that provide shared fish meals and are open to anyone regardless of faith. Each one takes on its own format and specifics, but there are many to choose from over the next several weeks that are taking place throughout Maine and beyond. The Portland Diocese has a web page with information about many of the meals available throughout Lent at portlanddiocese.org/lenten-meals.

In addition to providing fish dinners for the community during Lent, some of the churches that participate also build in a component of giving — turning one’s personal sacrifice into a charitable act. One of the churches that does this is right here in Brunswick. St. Charles Borromeo Church is offering a Lenten Haddock Chowder Takeout at their location at 132 McKeen St. on Fridays during Lent. This began on Feb. 16 and will continue through March 22. People can pick up a serving of homemade fish chowder, oyster crackers and a dessert for $10. Purchases can be made in cash or checks made out to All Saints Parish with the proceeds going to support six different local organizations: Midcoast Hunger Prevention, The Tedford Shelter, The Gathering Place, Habitat for Humanity 7 Rivers Maine, Oasis Free Clinics and the People Plus Teen Center.

One of the things I appreciate about food is its ability to introduce people to new traditions and cultures. While I do not practice Lent, my love for seafood has led me to learn more about the reasons behind the tradition of eating fish during Lent and to seek out opportunities to participate in community dinners, particularly those that provide for those in need. This could be at any time of year, not just during the Lenten season. There are numerous other traditions around seafood from other parts of the world that can provide new ways to appreciate and enjoy Maine seafood. I look forward to discovering and sharing more.

Finally, last week, I wrote about Brunswick’s Climate Action Plan and the public forum is from 6-8 p.m. Thursday, March 7, at the Coffin School Gym. I failed to mention the date and, given that it is happening so soon, I wanted to include a reminder for those interested in participating. You can find more information at brunswickclimateaction.org.

Susan Olcott is the director of operations at Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association.

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